3 Day Tour Around Lake Champlain - Oh, the Lilacs!

On Memorial Day weekend, I set out on an easy, scenic 100-mile route circling northern Lake Champlain, doable with my current fitness, divided into 3 manageable days. I like to enjoy roadside wildflowers, architecture, historic markers, and even garage sales! I waited until the bike ferry opened; it's a pleasant lake crossing, bypassing a busy road in favor of pedaling South Hero's gorgeous Westside Road. With some rain in the forecast, I hoped the light itinerary would allow me to choose a dry window for cycling each day.

Lilacs were in bloom, their heady scent perfuming the route, so much so that I dubbed my adventure "the lilac tour." Mmmmm.

Point Au Roche's rooms purposely lack a TV, overlook manicured grounds, and have private decks. It's a wonderful spot to enjoy birdlife, and I even saw a woodchuck.

One of my favorite places to stay is Point Au Roche Lodge. Located at "D" on the map. It's a low-key, rustic place with lovely, large rooms, a gazebo to relax in (or park your bike discreetly out of sight), and a kitchen to cook your own food. I brought some items from home for dinner and breakfast, supplemented with convenience store food.

The lower right photo shows the remains of a wooden railroad trestle that once crossed the lake.

It rained early on the second day, but let up by 10am, so  I cycled northward on an amazing tailwind, all the way to Rouses Point! I ate a breakfast bagel at Lakeside Coffee Roasters, relaxed for an hour, then slowly climbed and descended the Missisquoi Bridge to Vermont, amidst buffeting sidewinds. 

The roadway was busy, though with wide shoulders, until I turned towards Alburgh, then located the Alburgh Rail Trail, a few yards off the main road. The trail is only 4 miles, but the remoteness and nearly singletrack through wetlands were a delight, with a birdsong serenade. The trail conveniently intersected with a side road to my destination, the Alburgh RV Resort, located at "H" on the map.

It was raining by the time I arrived at the campground, so I ducked into the recreation hall. I had a good experience last year at this spot. While primarily an RV resort, there's a communal grassy area beneath trees that serves as a tent area; people are nice; there's a lakefront area, and I called ahead to pay, because reception is often closed, though the proprietors are only a phone call away. It was a chilly 50F and still windy, so I snuggled inside my packable jacket - a necessary item - and read for a while, until the rain stopped. I set up my tent, then returned to the sheltered entryway to cook dinner before settling down to watch a movie on my Kindle in the tent.

I was warm and comfortable, earplugs blocking out the rain that continued overnight, but for some odd reason, that has never happened before, I didn't sleep for more than an hour - that was a long night! 

I had planned to make coffee on the third morning, but after packing up a soaked tent, I wanted to start on my 40+ mile journey south, once the storm had passed, knowing I could eat breakfast at a Maplefields convenience store 20 minutes away. The coffee and waffle breakfast sandwich tasted great!

The rest of the ride was pleasant. A slight headwind didn't hinder progress; Google's routing kept me off busy Route 2, and the lilac fragrance freshened the gentle island miles. I'm always amazed at the nicer waterfront homes slowly emerging along the lakeshore. I stopped for a rest at Hero's Welcome, engaged with cycle tourists from St. Louis, and waved to a lone tourist soon after I set off. 

I ate half my sandwich at the familiar Grand Isle ferry landing, filled water bottles, and an hour later returned on the bike ferry, arriving home at 3pm.

What a great route!

Ideas for 2026

My goal in 2026 is to keep the cycling momentum by incorporating new trails and routes. Besides the  Colorado trip, I want to complete another weeklong bike tour - last year's was great - where is yet to be determined.

• In March, I'm heading back to the Philly Bike Expo, this time with my husband! I'm excited to meet up with cycling friends, ride with others, attend seminars, and, of course, attend the main event. It's also the 250th anniversary of the US, and we may stumble upon some of Philly's special events.
• Because bike touring in summer's heat was successful, I plan to do it again. It has its merits: cooling off in streams, packing less, and being able to bail on local adventures. Ideas include a 3-day Champlain Islands loop, an upstate New York adventure using the Adirondack Rail Trail, and a one-way journey using Amtrak. So many possibilities!
• With a front rack and comfortable bars installed on the Downtube Dyan, I plan to test its handling capabilities on an overnight. The long-term goal is to lower the gearing and try wider tires for more adventurous multimodal trips, but one step at a time.
• I'm heading back to Colorado, which has now become an annual pilgrimage, visiting family and friends in Fort Collins for more cycling/hiking fun. 
• We'll continue to explore more mountain bike trails. Ideas include Woodstock, Millstone and North Branch, all in VT, and Blueberry Hills in Elizabethtown, NY.

2025 Rewind

Adventures in Colorado.

2025 was a year when we made travel and adventure a priority. With maximizing vacation and my retirement on the horizon, it made sense to start the momentum.

 

An organized Philly Bike Expo folding bike ride.

Early in the year, attending the Philly Bike Expo, riding on plowed trails, researching a new folder, and a Colorado vacation occupied my mind and body. 

The adventures continued! A fun-filled overnight with Adele, buying a Downtube folder, bike touring the Cross Vermont and Lamoille Valley Rail Trail, and exploring trails around the Montreal region. My husband and I have become KOA converts: we love the dependable cleanliness, atmosphere, and occasional glamping in a cabin.

September and October were filled with more travel: Veloroute des Bleuets, and coastal time capped with riding the Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail. I never let good weather pass me by!

We made an effort to ride more mountain bike trails. Vermont and New York are filled with trail networks. We only touched the surface of a growing system.

And of course, the annual Coffeeneuring Challenge. I made headway in practicing the Gouache medium, dipping my fingers into painting scenery.

We've had a snowy start to winter. By far the best surprise has been riding with my husband on snowy, plowed trails. He broke his hip while riding to work when we lived in Portland, OR, and since then he's avoided riding in the winter. Something clicked this year - available studded tires likely helped. Since the initial rides together, he's outfitted his preferred bike with gnarly 29" studs and can handle the trails much better than I can with narrower tires. With his 26" studded Bridgestone up for grabs, I'll be sure to explore better traction.

I'm grateful for all the 2025 adventures, plus I topped 3600 miles. Life is good.

Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail

Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail scene and a section of chunky trail conditions.

Planning a ride on the 83 mile Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail (XNHAT) was doable, even in October this year due to the prolonged drought and unusually warm stretch of sunny days. From the western New Hampshire border, eastward to Bethel, Maine, the "trail" is a mix of gravel rail trail - often quite rough - dirt roads, a few sandy stretches shared with ATVs, highway with a couple steep hills, and quiet rolling paved backroads near the eastern terminus. 

End of first day, enjoying the smoother, scenic Presidential Rail Trail.

The XNHAT website includes lots of planning information. They mailed us a waterproof map, which was a huge help because the trail is virtually unsigned - we noticed only 3 markers - so additional phone navigation was necessary. We started on the western end, leaving the car behind.  We reserved a campsite halfway, one in Bethel, and arranged for a shuttle back to our vehicle on the third morning. The only difficulty was getting to each campground by dark. It's odd to camp in October, and my husband and I realized we hadn't chosen to do it in 40 years! 

The well equipped Israel River Campground and a surprise full moon.

The climb from Woodsville along the Ammonoosuc River for the first 20 miles on newly graded, chunky surface gave me trouble. I should've been fine with 2" tires, so I moved slowly, eventually taking a much needed break in Littleton. The afternoon was in the 80sF, but the surfaced improved and we made "time" on the paved portions, arriving at 4:30 at the comfortable Israel River Campground. 

Left: the large bridge span over the Androscoggin River at Gorham. Right: Foliage on North Road, leading into Maine.

The second day's miles were more agreeable, descending gradually on the leaf covered Presidential Trail. We got offtrack in Gorham, unfortunately, letting gravity lead us through sandy shared ATV portion, crossing the amazingly long bridge, into more sand before having to backtrack uphill through the mess to access Gorham and lunch - on the other side of the river! Once we sorted that out, it was easiest to ride on a busy highway for 5 miles, then regain the "trail" on the next bridge crossing. It was a lovely afternoon ride on semi shaded North Road, eventually camping in Bethel, ME. The shuttle back to the car worked perfectly.

I loved that the route followed two major New Hampshire Rivers: Ammonoosuc and Androscoggin. Unfortunately, both were extremely low due to the drought so we missed the waters lovely serenade.

Favorite portions: The Presidential Rail Trail and North Road.

Cross Vermont & Lamoille Valley Rail Trail (LVRT) 7 Day Adventure

Day 1 - Cross VT & LVRT, Home to Little River State Park in Waterbury. 45 miles

My husband planned a cross-state touring loop, using the Cross Vermont Trail and the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail (LVRT), then unfortunately couldn't join me, due to a recent injury. Last minute, I figured out how to carry the tent and left - uniquely this route starts/finishes from home - and on my birthday, no less! Canadian wildfires have affected air quality, plus most of my allotted vacation time was forecast to be hot, but I felt compelled to start the trip as I'd been looking forward to it. The beauty of this adventure, unlike any other, is that I wouldn't be too far from home, should it not work out.

The first day's miles were mostly familiar, though camping at Little River State Park, in the overflow spot reserved for cyclists, was a delight. I swam in beautifully clear lake water, a break from the heat. The poor air caused a sore throat, but it disappeared once I had stopped riding.

Day 2 - Cross VT & LVRT, Little River State Park to Montpelier. 15 miles

 

The next morning, just as I was ready to leave, it started raining. Scrambling to protect my gear, I repacked panniers lined in garbage bags, including covering the front rack. I wore a poncho, more breathable than rain gear in the heat. Unfortunately, I only made it to Montpelier when it started to pour - definitely wasn't in the forecast! I took refuge at Capital Grounds, the local coffee shop. It was then I decided to call it quits for the day after consulting the radar. I planned to find indoor accommodation, and talked with my husband, who offered to bring me home, then drove me back the following day, after cleaning and drying all my gear. Vacation time is precious and I never want it to be a suffer fest, plus I had built in a few extra days should foul weather occur.

Day 3 - Cross VT & LVRT, Montpelier to Ricker State Park. 25 miles

I loved the third day! Following my intuition, I bypassed a listed detour on Route 2 - the hill looked ominous - and returned to the Wells River Trail in Plainfield. Again, a one mile section, noted, before advised to rejoin the busy road, yet a runner said I could continue on the wooded trail. Another junction, a trail snaked around a short, signed private driveway, then the rail trail continued on, completely skipping miles of pavement! It was a 20 mile wooded climb, and an eventual intersection with Ricker Pond Campground. The swim felt delightful.

Day 4 - Cross VT & LVRT, Ricker State Park to Danville. 23 miles

 

The fourth day was brutal, climbing and descending hot pavement through small towns, eventually topping out in Danville, where the following day I'd turn west on the LVRT. I walked several steep sections. I was done riding by noon - clearly not in hill-shape - relaxed at the campsite, then spent the afternoon in the pool. 

Day 5 - Cross VT & LVRT, Danville to Jeffersonville. 56 miles

Oh my goodness, what a lovely wooded ride, descending for two hours, admiring Queen Ann's Lace and Black Eyed Susans! Each day of this journey has been unique. I planned to camp with my husband that night, so we arranged that I'd ride extra miles so it would position me better for the following day. It all worked out and we spent a lovely evening in a lean-to at Elmore State Park - up a two-mile hill I didn't have to climb.

Day 6 - Cross VT & LVRT, Jeffersonville to Alburgh. 39 miles

My husband rode with me a few miles on day 6, before turning back. The climbing was gentle, I took my time, enjoyed open fields, short wooded tunnels, and tried to avoid a few chipmunk holes pockmarking the gravel surface. I hit one, thankful for my cushiony tires. The Hard Rock has been a comfortable companion, clearly cut-out for dirt rail trail riding. By day's end, I made it Alburgh RV Resort, and camped beneath a tree canopy.

Day 7 - Cross VT & LVRT, Alburgh, VT then, southward through New York, then home, using two ferries. 52 miles

I had positioned myself for a 7th day tailwind ride - in cooler, dry weather - south along the New York shoreline, a place I hadn't ridden in nearly 20 years. It was beautiful! I took two ferries and my husband met me for the last 10 miles home. He'd supported my journey and was always with me in spirit. I'm thankful for this incredibly inspiring loop.

Favorite new touring items: Arm sleeves for sun protection and warmth, plus adding a lightweight sleeping mat that doubles for yoga stretching and extra comfort beneath my air mattress. 

A Pennsylvania and New York Rail Trail Vacation

A section of the Walkill Valley Rail Trail.

With a week's vacation, our goal was to explore some of Pennsylvania's rail trails. Armed with Rails to Trail's Pennsylvania guidebook, we were flush with choices.  After last year's vacation reroute, I marveled at the perfect mid-September forecast ahead of us.

My husband did most of the driving, though I will take over if he's tired. Both of us suffer back and sciatica-type leg discomfort - oh the joys of an older body - so 5 hours in the car was plenty. We set up camp and rode a portion of the Walkill Valley Rail Trail into New Palz, NY to stretch our legs. I wanted to go farther, show him an old neighborhood I'd seen on a previous trip, but it was unappealing to cook dinner in the dark.

We have done many separate bike trips. He's retired and leaves for weeks each year, while I take advantage of weekend overnights using Amtrak. We intersect on day rides and my yearly vacation, so sometimes we get excited to show each other our special finds.

Riding a lovely section of the Switchback Rail Trail in Jim Thorpe.

The next morning we detoured just a few miles to check out New Jersey's high point, an amazing stone tower on a ridge, then headed through the Delaware Water Gap. As the copilot, I'm phone researching, giving driving directions, sometimes quoting regional historical facts, thumbing through the PA guidebook etc. generally exploring. I discovered a bike trail while traveling through the gap - an idea in case we returned the same way.

The day's focus was getting to Jim Thorpe in Pennsylvania, arranging a bike shuttle to ride the Lehigh Gorge, a ride my husband claimed I would like, walked around the touristy, but interesting old mining community with houses wedged into steep hillsides, then locating a campground. With a little daylight left, we pedaled a few miles of the Switchback Trail through rhododendron forest, topping out on a grassy dam.

Lehigh Gorge Rail Trail. 

With continued marvelous weather on the next day, we boarded the shuttle bus and rode 25 miles back to Jim Thorpe. I especially enjoyed the upper, shaded portion. The river was a constant companion though distant and mostly inaccessible, except for two lovely, trailside waterfalls. I noticed rail ties are hidden beneath earth and undergrowth, creating a berm beside the trail. This seems to be a common practice among rail to trail conversions. What do you do with thousands of potentially hazardous ties?

Pine Creek Trail, day 1.

By far, the Pine Creek Rail Trail two-day journey was our favorite vacation spot. It's a popular trip, aided by shuttles, so there are numerous ways to make this 62 mile adventure your own. Only two plus hours from Jim Thorpe, we stayed in Jersey Shore, the downstream end, and arranged shuttle pick up for the next morning.

It was a interesting shuttle upstream while our guide pointed out resupply stops as we let out and picked up other bike travelers. At the trail entrance, we took our time packing, used provided facilities, and set out. The trail surface was sublimely smooth stone dust, edged by wooden rails, mostly treelined, and an almost imperceptible downhill gradient. We took our time, stopped in little communities for a snack, but in general just admired the river, water birds, and had long conversations. We were in second growth forest as the railroad formerly transported harvested timber to a larger market.

Pettecote Junction campground.

There were a few primitive campsites that we considered, but we stayed mid-way at Pettecote Junction, a private, full service place, complete with RVs, cabins, and even a caboose for overnight accommodation. There were numerous available riverside tent spots, so we bike overnighters spread out to allow ample space. We have camped in our younger years at free or forest service sites with minimal facilities, but as we age, and expense is not a big concern, we prefer a hot shower at the end of the day.

Pine Creek Trail, day 2.

The second day was uniquely different as young American Sycamore lined the trail, providing riverside views beneath their canopy. 

And lovely yellow flowers edged the trail. Trees were just beginning their colorful autumnal plumage.

Ample park benches provided respite. I found the whole journey very contemplative and it was easy to slow down and prolong the 30 miles back to the car. In recent years, I've found 30-40 daily miles more enjoyable, especially as I'm employed, and fitness rides are limited. Flat rail trail journeys are also helpful.

Trail users also appreciate regular bathrooms. Some came with signage! 

Where many rail trails fail, is providing adequate places to refill water bottles. The small towns on this route have tiny grocery stores, yet refuse to let travelers use their tap. Instead they insist on selling plastic water bottles. We made sure to top off our bottles at the campground before setting off.

My Hard Rock was the perfect gravel trail machine. Plus size tires were helpful.

As the day warmed, the lower river widened, and we enjoyed grand vistas, and longer bridges.

At journeys end, the parking lot was downright HOT. We dried the wet tent while packing everything up, then moved the car to a shady corner for a picnic lunch.

Ironton Rail Trail.

Without any specific must-do trails, the next day we headed back to Eastern Pennsylvania, riding the Ironton Rail Trail, exploring the old cement sites. The trail passes through several parks with historical signs and traverses between neighborhoods. Clearly, the locals regularly use the path. Of special note was  the spur section, unfortunately bordering a gun club, with disturbing repeated loud firearms so close that we couldn't carry on a conversation.

Plainfield Township Recreational Trail.

Later the same day we stopped to traverse out and back on the 6+ mile Plainfield Township Recreational Trail. This corner of Pennsylvania is slate country. We saw numerous rocky outcroppings. In general, the trail was a little rough, but we made it work. 

As mentioned previously, the copoilot - yours truly - sorted out which trails to ride while enroute.

An example of slate along the Plainfield Township Trail.

McDade Trail.

The McDade Trail in the Delaware Water Gap had appealed to us because of it's varied terrain so we retraced our steps, camped nearby, and set out the next morning. To avoid one end with extreme elevation gain (not a rail trail!) we started at about mile 6 of its 31 mile length.

McDade Trail.

It was rough terrain for the first couple miles, but thankfully smoothed out over time. Single track edged soybean fields, or through open woodland. Sometimes we traversed gravel paths, or up and down ravines and over bridges. What a diverse trail! 

At about 13-14 miles, we turned back for an easier cruise back to the car.

The final day we drove partway home and for a break, rode a section of the Empire Trail near Fort Edward, but construction meant some of it was rough going. However, it was exercise before the next portion home.

Can't beat a week's worth of dry weather!

Inaugural Bike Overnight with the Specialized Hard Rock

 

In May I set out on an easy peasy 15 mile ride to meet up with my significant other for an overnight at a state park lean to. The goal was to see how the Hard Rock fared with camping weight.

My sleep system was piled atop the Jack the Bike Rack...

...with a homemade pouch strapped below. I have toured in the past with this rack, undermounting a couple items that ended up falling out on bumpy terrain using only webbing attachments. The pouch idea work better, and with daisy chain webbing surrounding the opening, the 4-hook cargo net secured both sleep quilt and pouch items in place.

The stuffed pouch rubbed a bit against one side of the V-brakes, so a little alteration is needed. However, this solution will provide added security and take advantage of the extra space beneath the rack.

I arrived ahead of my glamping partner and I was pleased at the private lean-to.

Chairs, cooler, good food, and beer - plus my guy - were welcome additions.

Packing up the dusty bike for the return ride home.

Enough pink for ya?

The trip was a success. I love when a simple overnight works out, you get to test gear, and miles of smiles is worth the simple getaway. Jack the Bike Rack works better on this older bike, keeping front weight low. As expected the Hard Rock handles touring weight just fine, and the cushy tires add a plush, comfortable ride.

7 Items that are Game Changers for Year-round Cycling

For Spring and Fall, I prefer the Outdoor Ventures Jacket, which provides warmth, windproof and water resistance, and sports a two-way zipper and split hem for on-saddle comfort. It's washable and after nearly 4 years of use is my preference for all-around protection during the shoulder seasons.

I love bike sandals, for touring and everyday cycling, in the summertime. There's nothing like allowing your feet to breathe! Or paired with socks. I'm on my second pair and ready to use my third. Initially a Bike Nashbar house brand, Performance offered them for a while at a discount so I snapped up an extra pair before they were discontinued. In the future, Keen sandals may be a good replacement.

Winter cycling, especially here in Vermont, is a whole other animal. I've found that bar mitts are necessary along with insulated footwear. I like the low cost, thick and fuzzy Mogee Muffs, to keep my hands toasty plus the Storm Chaser insulated slip-on boots. The footwear is grippy and roomy enough for thick socks and, if needed, there's enough space for foot warmers.

For hand comfort, I use Ergon Grips. Terry saddles are another necessity. Both provide relief, especially as I grow older. 

And a wonderful, low-cost solution to protect my eyes - I wear contacts - providing dust-free vision: the simple and stylish Dewalt safety glasses. I purchased my current pair online, but there are many versions at your local hardware store. They're also handy for riding in buggy summertime evenings. My husband loves their version of sunglasses.

What cycling-related things have made a big difference in your life?