Friday, October 18, 2024

A Pennsylvania and New York Rail Trail Vacation

A section of the Walkill Valley Rail Trail.

With a week's vacation, our goal was to explore some of Pennsylvania's rail trails. Armed with Rails to Trail's Pennsylvania guidebook, we were flush with choices.  After last year's vacation reroute, I marveled at the perfect mid-September forecast ahead of us.

My husband did most of the driving, though I will take over if he's tired. Both of us suffer back and sciatica-type leg discomfort - oh the joys of an older body - so 5 hours in the car was plenty. We set up camp and rode a portion of the Walkill Valley Rail Trail into New Palz, NY to stretch our legs. I wanted to go farther, show him an old neighborhood I'd seen on a previous trip, but it was unappealing to cook dinner in the dark.

We have done many separate bike trips. He's retired and leaves for weeks each year, while I take advantage of weekend overnights using Amtrak. We intersect on day rides and my yearly vacation, so sometimes we get excited to show each other our special finds.

Riding a lovely section of the Switchback Rail Trail in Jim Thorpe.

The next morning we detoured just a few miles to check out New Jersey's high point, an amazing stone tower on a ridge, then headed through the Delaware Water Gap. As the copilot, I'm phone researching, giving driving directions, sometimes quoting regional historical facts, thumbing through the PA guidebook etc. generally exploring. I discovered a bike trail while traveling through the gap - an idea in case we returned the same way.

The day's focus was getting to Jim Thorpe in Pennsylvania, arranging a bike shuttle to ride the Lehigh Gorge, a ride my husband claimed I would like, walked around the touristy, but interesting old mining community with houses wedged into steep hillsides, then locating a campground. With a little daylight left, we pedaled a few miles of the Switchback Trail through rhododendron forest, topping out on a grassy dam.

Lehigh Gorge Rail Trail. 
With continued marvelous weather on the next day, we boarded the shuttle bus and rode 25 miles back to Jim Thorpe. I especially enjoyed the upper, shaded portion. The river was a constant companion though distant and mostly inaccessible, except for two lovely, trailside waterfalls. I noticed rail ties are hidden beneath earth and undergrowth, creating a berm beside the trail. This seems to be a common practice among rail to trail conversions. What do you do with thousands of potentially hazardous ties?

Pine Creek Trail, day 1.
By far, the Pine Creek Rail Trail two-day journey was our favorite vacation spot. It's a popular trip, aided by shuttles, so there are numerous ways to make this 62 mile adventure your own. Only two plus hours from Jim Thorpe, we stayed in Jersey Shore, the downstream end, and arranged shuttle pick up for the next morning.

It was a interesting shuttle upstream while our guide pointed out resupply stops as we let out and picked up other bike travelers. At the trail entrance, we took our time packing, used provided facilities, and set out. The trail surface was sublimely smooth stone dust, edged by wooden rails, mostly treelined, and an almost imperceptible downhill gradient. We took our time, stopped in little communities for a snack, but in general just admired the river, water birds, and had long conversations. We were in second growth forest as the railroad formerly transported harvested timber to a larger market.

Pettecote Junction campground.

There were a few primitive campsites that we considered, but we stayed mid-way at Pettecote Junction, a private, full service place, complete with RVs, cabins, and even a caboose for overnight accommodation. There were numerous available riverside tent spots, so we bike overnighters spread out to allow ample space. We have camped in our younger years at free or forest service sites with minimal facilities, but as we age, and expense is not a big concern, we prefer a hot shower at the end of the day.


Pine Creek Trail, day 2.
The second day was uniquely different as young American Sycamore lined the trail, providing riverside views beneath their canopy. 

And lovely yellow flowers edged the trail. Trees were just beginning their colorful autumnal plumage.

Ample park benches provided respite. I found the whole journey very contemplative and it was easy to slow down and prolong the 30 miles back to the car. In recent years, I've found 30-40 daily miles more enjoyable, especially as I'm employed, and fitness rides are limited. Flat rail trail journeys are also helpful.

Trail users also appreciate regular bathrooms. Some came with signage! 

Where many rail trails fail, is providing adequate places to refill water bottles. The small towns on this route have tiny grocery stores, yet refuse to let travelers use their tap. Instead they insist on selling plastic water bottles. We made sure to top off our bottles at the campground before setting off.

My Hard Rock was the perfect gravel trail machine. Plus size tires were helpful.
As the day warmed, the lower river widened, and we enjoyed grand vistas, and longer bridges.

At journeys end, the parking lot was downright HOT. We dried the wet tent while packing everything up, then moved the car to a shady corner for a picnic lunch.

Ironton Rail Trail.
Without any specific must-do trails, the next day we headed back to Eastern Pennsylvania, riding the Ironton Rail Trail, exploring the old cement sites. The trail passes through several parks with historical signs and traverses between neighborhoods. Clearly, the locals regularly use the path. Of special note was  the spur section, unfortunately bordering a gun club, with disturbing repeated loud firearms so close that we couldn't carry on a conversation.

Plainfield Township Recreational Trail.
Later the same day we stopped to traverse out and back on the 6+ mile Plainfield Township Recreational Trail. This corner of Pennsylvania is slate country. We saw numerous rocky outcroppings. In general, the trail was a little rough, but we made it work. 

As mentioned previously, the copoilot - yours truly - sorted out which trails to ride while enroute.


An example of slate along the Plainfield Township Trail.

McDade Trail.
The McDade Trail in the Delaware Water Gap had appealed to us because of it's varied terrain so we retraced our steps, camped nearby, and set out the next morning. To avoid one end with extreme elevation gain (not a rail trail!) we started at about mile 6 of its 31 mile length.

McDade Trail.

It was rough terrain for the first couple miles, but thankfully smoothed out over time. Single track edged soybean fields, or through open woodland. Sometimes we traversed gravel paths, or up and down ravines and over bridges. What a diverse trail! 

At about 13-14 miles, we turned back for an easier cruise back to the car.

The final day we drove partway home and for a break, rode a section of the Empire Trail near Fort Edward, but construction meant some of it was rough going. However, it was exercise before the next portion home.

Can't beat a week's worth of dry weather!

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