On my radar since the successful Amtrak excursion to Albany in April, the weather gods aligned to provide another weekend getaway - November no less - this time to explore more of the Empire State Trail in conjunction with the Glens Falls regional network of paths.
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Fort Edward, New York Amtrak station, housed by Evergreen Bicycle Works. There are no facilities or inside waiting area. I took note of this for Sunday evening boarding. |
Like before, it's an easy roll to Burlington's Amtrak Station, folding and storing the bike inside a
large tote, then hop on board. Sometimes I get lucky and staff hoists the bike up the narrow steps, but not this time. A 3+ hour journey and I start pedaling in Fort Edward.
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Narrow, older canal at left. |
The Amtrak station was situated on the Empire Trail route so it was easy navigation.
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The wide Champlain Canal, formerly tugboats towed barges, but this portion also serves boaters long distance cruising from Lake Champlain to New York City! We learned about Loopers while riding the Erie Canal. |
Between paved and gravel trail, plus a segment of dirt road, all following either a narrow mule lead former narrow canal (currently either dry or filled with mallards) the varied surfaces reminded me of our
adventure on the Erie Canal Trail. |
Canadian geese filled the waterway. |
I never found this segment boring. There were walkers, geese honking, and even curvy sections.
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What's this on a nearby road, beefing up wet areas for snow machines? |
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Interesting trail portion through the former canal. I appreciate the historical signage! |
With waning daylight, I turned around in Fort Ann and beelined it back to the Glens Falls Feeder Canal junction, turning west.
The initial climb past the beautiful locks was lovely. However, it was hard to ignore the adjacent mountain, a former dump, now classified as a superfund cleanup site...
I continued following the rather quiet Feeder Canal trail, sometimes riding through leaves, dirt, or paved sections along, between neighborhoods, or beside closed mills - some converted to housing in Hudson Falls. It was very parklike, a gem within former mill cities, that I presume have seen lots of transformation in recent years, especially after GE left, unfortunately contaminating portions of the Hudson River. I felt safe though, and resorted to using lights the last five miles until arriving at my reserved hotel in Queensbury around 6 pm.
I had done my homework, though, and had a pleasant hotel experience. The staff made me feel safe, which as a solitary traveler, made a big difference.
I also have been participating in the
Coffeeneuring Challenge. I'd brought a special mug, filled it with hotel coffee (rather tasty too), and toted it about a mile to a park on the Hudson River, but not without a near disaster. The mug with silicone top seemed fairly secure, but the lid popped off and flew away as I gently coasted down a hill - I stared at the hot coffee, snug in my stem bag, until I managed to stop, avoiding as many pavement cracks and bumps as possible. I jogged back to retrieve the lid - fortunately without traffic - and secured it in place. Phew.
What a grand spot to sip coffee!
Overlook Park is the confluence of the Hudson River and the beginning of the Feeder Canal Trail, the portion I had not visited the previous day.
I chatted with three people on a triple Commotion bicycle who were laughing and obviously trying to figure out how to maneuver together.
I photographed them later when they caught up with me.
A few miles later, I crossed downtown Glens Falls and connected with another trail system to Lake George. I'd ridden this section about 15 years ago, but had forgotten how hilly it is! I struggled a few times and walked a couple short stretches where the trail arcs over a busy road - probably better suited to a lowered-geared bike - but I made it.
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Lake George is nostalgic for me and I wistfully thought of my father who has been gone for several years. We camped as a family with my parents a few times when our children were young. |
As it turns out, it was mostly uphill to Lake George. I rested and snacked on the shoreline, enjoying the emerging sunshine.
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Exploring Roger's Island in Fort Edward and the Roger's Rangers monument. |
Sunday was also the day we turned clocks back, so I had ample time for riding. The difficult part was the train didn't leave until 6:20, now in complete darkness. But the sun felt nice and I tried to find a lunch spot, but failed, not wanting to add extra miles. I made do with a Stewart's convenience store, had a warm place to hang out, recharge my phone, fill water bottles, and use of a bathroom. I also stumbled on a dollar store, bought a warmer hat (thinking of sitting later on the train platform), replaced threadbare gloves, and got snacks for the journey home.
By early afternoon I had retraced the Feeder Canal to Fort Edward and wondered what to do for the next several hours, besides basking in glorious warmth. I took advantage of pedaling around a bit, visiting Roger's Island, and relaxed in a lovely town park on the Hudson. For travelers, finding a public bathroom is critical and the singular one was closed so I resorted to the local, yet again, Stewart's Shop!
Fort Edward is a sleepy town, but I did locate the hot spot after hearing a band, Googling, and discovering Slickfin Brewing - and only two blocks from the train station! Perfect. I sat outdoors next to a heater, and chatted with locals, eventually retreating inside to enjoy warmth when the sun went down. Though the brewery officially closed at 5, it was okay to stay until 5:45, when I helped stack chairs on tables.
The return journey went off without a hitch and I pedaled home in the dark. Each day was about 38 miles.