3 Day Tour Around Lake Champlain - Oh, the Lilacs!

On Memorial Day weekend, I set out on an easy, scenic 100-mile route circling northern Lake Champlain, doable with my current fitness, divided into 3 manageable days. I like to enjoy roadside wildflowers, architecture, historic markers, and even garage sales! I waited until the bike ferry opened; it's a pleasant lake crossing, bypassing a busy road in favor of pedaling South Hero's gorgeous Westside Road. With some rain in the forecast, I hoped the light itinerary would allow me to choose a dry window for cycling each day.

Lilacs were in bloom, their heady scent perfuming the route, so much so that I dubbed my adventure "the lilac tour." Mmmmm.

Point Au Roche's rooms purposely lack a TV, overlook manicured grounds, and have private decks. It's a wonderful spot to enjoy birdlife, and I even saw a woodchuck.

One of my favorite places to stay is Point Au Roche Lodge. Located at "D" on the map. It's a low-key, rustic place with lovely, large rooms, a gazebo to relax in (or park your bike discreetly out of sight), and a kitchen to cook your own food. I brought some items from home for dinner and breakfast, supplemented with convenience store food.

The lower right photo shows the remains of a wooden railroad trestle that once crossed the lake.

It rained early on the second day, but let up by 10am, so  I cycled northward on an amazing tailwind, all the way to Rouses Point! I ate a breakfast bagel at Lakeside Coffee Roasters, relaxed for an hour, then slowly climbed and descended the Missisquoi Bridge to Vermont, amidst buffeting sidewinds. 

The roadway was busy, though with wide shoulders, until I turned towards Alburgh, then located the Alburgh Rail Trail, a few yards off the main road. The trail is only 4 miles, but the remoteness and nearly singletrack through wetlands were a delight, with a birdsong serenade. The trail conveniently intersected with a side road to my destination, the Alburgh RV Resort, located at "H" on the map.

It was raining by the time I arrived at the campground, so I ducked into the recreation hall. I had a good experience last year at this spot. While primarily an RV resort, there's a communal grassy area beneath trees that serves as a tent area; people are nice; there's a lakefront area, and I called ahead to pay, because reception is often closed, though the proprietors are only a phone call away. It was a chilly 50F and still windy, so I snuggled inside my packable jacket - a necessary item - and read for a while, until the rain stopped. I set up my tent, then returned to the sheltered entryway to cook dinner before settling down to watch a movie on my Kindle in the tent.

I was warm and comfortable, earplugs blocking out the rain that continued overnight, but for some odd reason, that has never happened before, I didn't sleep for more than an hour - that was a long night! 

I had planned to make coffee on the third morning, but after packing up a soaked tent, I wanted to start on my 40+ mile journey south, once the storm had passed, knowing I could eat breakfast at a Maplefields convenience store 20 minutes away. The coffee and waffle breakfast sandwich tasted great!

The rest of the ride was pleasant. A slight headwind didn't hinder progress; Google's routing kept me off busy Route 2, and the lilac fragrance freshened the gentle island miles. I'm always amazed at the nicer waterfront homes slowly emerging along the lakeshore. I stopped for a rest at Hero's Welcome, engaged with cycle tourists from St. Louis, and waved to a lone tourist soon after I set off. 

I ate half my sandwich at the familiar Grand Isle ferry landing, filled water bottles, and an hour later returned on the bike ferry, arriving home at 3pm.

What a great route!

2024 Rewind

2024 started off well, plunged into winter conditions, easily adapting to riding safely on snowy bike paths. I set my yearly intentions to have something to look forward to - it's the way I roll.

I broke my ribs in late January. Fortunately, it was only a hiccup in my cycling life. I fully recovered in 6 weeks and attended the Philly Bike Expo. The bonus was meeting and riding with online friends! 

I put together these bags for our son the bike mechanic. No two are alike.

On the creative front, I explored gouache painting for the second year for the Coffeenuring Challenge, tried a new stem bag pattern, and later sewed 4 more.

In June, I visited our son in Fort Collins, Colorado, and came home in awe of their cycling infrastructure and surrounding beauty.

Pine Creek Rail Trail in Pennsylvania.

My husband and I purposely sought new local trails in 2024, experiencing the D&H Rail Trail, Adirondack Rail Trail, two trails in New Hampshire, and a weeklong adventure in Pennsylvania. 

I went on solitary Amtrak adventures: riding one-way from Hudson, NY to Saratoga Springs during peak foliage (part one) and finishing a few weeks later, and from Castleton, VT homeward.

It's interesting to see the Monday-Friday progression.

Yearly accounting: I sorted the rack situation between the Rachel and the Hard Rock so both are touring-ready. I made it, finally, to the Philly Bike Expo after several years of trying (the pandemic didn't help). Due to two years of flooding, what's still elusive is riding across Vermont and back. 

I went out of 2024 with a bang, finishing the year with 3532 miles!

2024 Autumn Dahon Ride - Try, Try Again

Spoiler alert: I made it!

If plans go awry, get back out there and try again! Recently, when I set off on a 3-day journey via folding bike, a slashed tire sidelined the completion of day 3. Serendipity intervened in the form of a stranger who delivered me and my bicycle to the Amtrak station for the journey home. Luckily, another weekend weather window opened 3 weeks later, this time for an overnight only, hopefully, this time, making it to Saratoga National Historical Park.

With the Amtrak schedule running an hour late, I would be pushing daylight. However, most of the route to Troy was familiar, including the comfortable B&B. In addition, I was down to the wire, finishing the Coffeeneuring Challenge, and the only viable option open late was a Starbucks. Somehow I managed the visit: the latte was terrible, though the franchise sported the best, visible, sheltered bike rack. Go figure.

After a comfortable night's sleep, I set off northward, repeating miles in a frosty morning that gradually warmed.

I made it to the park! It was hilly, however, so between my flatlander legs and limited gears, I stuck to the main road following a ravine. There was a lot to explore, so a return trip would be necessary. At the visitor center, I hiked for 2 miles, guided by an online tour, then set off to Saratoga Springs and later Amtrak reservation. I enjoyed Google's hilly rural route by horse farmland, then around a portion of Lake Saratoga and its well-heeled lakeside homes, and eventually riding a main route into the city with wide shoulders. The gargantuan famous racetrack was a shocker, including the accompanying barns, stables, accommodation, parking lots, and museum. As I've said before, when you allow ample time for a new adventure, surprises make the journey.

With sunset at 4:30 in mind, I had ample time to safely pedal to the train station in daylight, so I visited Whitman Brewery, chosen for its long list of IPAs - I'm a big fan - and accompanying food. The burger and fries were delicious. Whitman was a good choice, so if you're in the area, check them out.

Remember, adventures are not always about the miles, but about encountering something new. 

Three Day Dahon Adventure During Peak Foliage

I prefer to streamline luggage into as few bags as possible-less to keep track of.

In late October, peak foliage and weather aligned for a two-night, 3-day one-way ride on my Dahon Boardwalk. It was also an experiment, hauling extra gear on small wheels.  As mentioned before, I enjoy taking Amtrak, especially with a folding bike, because I avoid the standard bicycle reservation. Folding bikes are treated as luggage. The goal this time was to ride more of the Empire State Trail, a mostly trail-only segment from Hudson, NY northward, then explore the Saratoga Battlefield - a place I've meant to visit for 30+ years.

After several hours of staring out the train window at the spectacular fall color, anxious to ride, I arrived at 3 pm in Hudson, NY. Time was of the essence. I had 3 hours of daylight to ride 17 miles to a motel. 

The sunshine and warmth were intoxicating. I immediately stumbled onto these abandoned Hudson River fishing camps and I remembered something about their controversial removal. I couldn't linger, so I immediately connected with the Empire Trail—straight up a hill!

The Electric Trolley portion of the Empire State Trail was a gentle roller coaster, running beneath powerlines, overall hillier than a standard rail trail, yet the route was straightforward with adequate signage. The amount of on-road sections were more frequent than I expected, however, lower traffic, and winding through the colorful landscape beside a river had its merit. Pushing daylight, I managed to buy food and arrive at a motel by sunset.

I had invited a friend to join me, but she wasn't feeling well. I'm comfortable traveling solo so I don't let the lack of companionship deter me. It's important to keep exploring, and I certainly couldn't pass up this opportunity during peak foliage!

The next morning was chilly but I came prepared, so with a little backtracking I was soon back on route, heading northwest towards Albany. More rollers, more sublime scenery, including riding beside beautiful lakes.

Nassau Lake.

By late morning, I rode by more urban areas, connected with neighborhood roads, and eventually lost a lot of elevation in Rensselaer/Troy communities, arriving at the Hudson River. 

From there it was a familiar route, heading northward on the Mohawk Hudson Hike Bike Trail to my accommodation in Troy. Well ahead of check-in time, I decided to enjoy the last 10 miles.

I noticed that my front bag was coming apart, though it would probably hold up for the rest of the trip. Between the gravel trail, some dirt roads, the possibly overstuffed bag unlatched from its Klickfix attachment a couple times, though not dangerously so - I wind the shoulder strap around the handlebars for extra security. I caught the problem immediately in both instances and stopped to reattach it firmly in place. 

I spent the next several miles savoring the sunshine, thinking it was probably time to investigate using a front rack. Initially, I didn't want to add more weight to a 30 lb. bicycle - also carrying it on board trains - but redistributing the weight near the front wheel would likely improve handling and visibility, offsetting added rack weight. I already own midsize panniers. I also worried that the plastic Klickfix attachment might fail under too much load - the problem sometimes with proprietary gear. A small duffel or trunk bag on the rear rack could further enhance carrying capacity. 

Entering Troy, I found a riverside spot and enjoyed an early dinner at Browns Brewing due to the lack of eateries near my accommodation.

Afterward, I pedaled on, and scouted the B&B spot, but still early for check-in, nearby I discovered an entrance to Oakwood Cemetery. I pushed my bike up the steep road until gaining the plateau. What a stunning, winding, beautifully landscaped cemetery with many old graves, gates, monuments, and churches! I could spend hours wandering the grounds and put it on my radar to return someday.

Uncle Sam Bikeway. 

Upon my descent, I also found the Uncle Sam Bikeway, a trail I would take the next morning northward that would bypass narrow roads through neighborhoods.

Between the cemetery and the newly discovered trail, it felt like gifts. I allow extra time and/or don't focus on riding all day because I thoroughly enjoy finding new treasures.

The third day started wonderfully, chatting with an English couple at breakfast, setting off riding the colorful Uncle Sam Bikeway, then northward on the Champlain Canalway Trail.

The trail ended and I followed Empire State Trail signs northward on secondary roads, hugging the west side of the Hudson River. In Stillwater, I ate lunch in a lovely riverside park complete with a reconstructed blockhouse, watching and listening to geese and ducks in the water. 

Five miles later, I heard a bang and my bike was forced to a halt. Yikes, this wasn't good! I got off the road into the grass, and inspected the flat rear tire, discovering a 1.5" slash. Not good at all. Checking the road berm, I found sharp, flat scissors. Somehow, I hadn't seen them. I spent the next hour, dismantling the rear wheel, not an easy task, but I had brought a special long-handled 14/15mm wrench for axle and pedal removal, booted the gash with sections of blown tube, and inserted a new tube. Unfortunately, as suspected, I couldn't inflate the tire much without the new tube bulging through the cut. 

Two vehicles had stopped to see if I was okay. I assured them and waved them on. After the "repair" I rolled the bike - at least it was rollable - back to an intersection where a route headed more directly to Saratoga Springs and the Amtrak Station where I had a return reservation later that day. With my thumb out, the second car immediately pulled over (a vehicle with a bike on the back - yay!) and Anita brought me to a bike shop in Saratoga Springs. Unfortunately, the mechanics didn't have a narrow enough tire, so Anita then drove me to the Amtrak Station, gave me her bag of leftover pretzels, and felt bad about leaving me there 2 hours before departure. Holy cow, what a kind woman! 

My adventure proved that it's worth allowing extra time and cyclists are generally wonderful people. I texted Anita when I got home so she knew I was safe. I had also invited her to come and ride with me in Vermont. I plan to pay this favor forward to others.

As for visiting the Saratoga Battlefield, I'm monitoring the fall weather. I now know a lovely B&B place to return to for a fresh redo of that day. 

2023 Rewind

2023 was the year that, finally, felt normal again. But, a new normal, which, if I've learned anything from the pandemic, it's easier to adapt when things go sideways. I still went on vacation - two in fact - and a couple overnights, but they weren't without hiccups, that were replaced with equally fun plans.

2023 Highlights

With a warmer winter, January and February was all about cruising at night on studded tires, and equally riding the Dahon on dry paths, while dreaming of spring adventures.

I concentrated on major upgrades to the Dahon in March, and April/May were a flurry of getting the Rachel ready and riding the Erie Canal Trail!

My husband and I made an effort to ride different trails in both Vermont and Canada, because July's record flooding wiped out sections of the newly opened cross Vermont's Lamoille Valley Rail Trail, canceling that planned weeklong July cycling vacation. We hope repairs are made in time for a 2024 second attempt.

In August, I drove to the Northeast Kingdom to ride my favorite mountain bike trails. While there, our bike mechanic son let me know a prized Specialized Hard Rock was available. You bet I said "yes"!

September's vacation turned out to be a perfect assortment of riding in Canada with a friend, then turning towards New Hampshire and the Atlantic Coast. Again, we pivoted in one day, initially planning to ride several Pennsylvania rail trails, but the weather was atrocious south of Vermont. It's always worthwhile to have alternative ideas.

In the autumn, because it's my favorite time of year, I ride more often, completing the Coffeeneuring Challenge, enjoying foliage rides, and adventures with friends.

On the creative front, I sewed a monster tote bag, repurposed a purple bag, and started painting again.

As 2023 comes to a close, I'm proud that I followed through with 2023 intentions. I also proved that my 61 years old body is still capable of hauling camping gear on longer bike tours, and partly because of that Erie Canal adventure, I surpassed an annual mileage milestone, breaking the 4K barrier (~4150).

Dahon Boardwalk and Amtrak to the Glens Falls Area Trails

On my radar since the successful Amtrak excursion to Albany in April, the weather gods aligned to provide another weekend getaway - November no less - this time to explore more of the Empire State Trail in conjunction with the Glens Falls regional network of paths. 

Fort Edward, New York Amtrak station, housed by Evergreen Bicycle Works. There are no facilities or inside waiting area. I took note of this for Sunday evening boarding.

Like before, it's an easy roll to Burlington's Amtrak Station, folding and storing the bike inside a large tote, then hop on board. Sometimes I get lucky and staff hoists the bike up the narrow steps, but not this time. A 3+ hour journey and I start pedaling in Fort Edward.

Saturday was overcast but with light winds so 50sF was certainly doable. I bundled up and set off northward to explore the Empire State Trail's segment to Fort Ann. 

Narrow, older canal at left.

The Amtrak station was situated on the Empire Trail route so it was easy navigation.

The wide Champlain Canal, formerly tugboats towed barges, but this portion also serves boaters long distance cruising from Lake Champlain to New York City! We learned about Loopers while riding the Erie Canal. 

Between paved and gravel trail, plus a segment of dirt road, all following either a narrow mule lead former narrow canal (currently either dry or filled with mallards) the varied surfaces reminded me of our adventure on the Erie Canal Trail.

Canadian geese filled the waterway.

I never found this segment boring. There were walkers, geese honking, and even curvy sections.

What's this on a nearby road, beefing up wet areas for snow machines?

Interesting trail portion through the former canal. I appreciate the historical signage!

With waning daylight, I turned around in Fort Ann and beelined it back to the Glens Falls Feeder Canal junction, turning west.

The initial climb past the beautiful locks was lovely. However, it was hard to ignore the adjacent mountain, a former dump, now classified as a superfund cleanup site...

I continued following the rather quiet Feeder Canal trail, sometimes riding through leaves, dirt, or paved sections along, between neighborhoods, or beside closed mills - some converted to housing in Hudson Falls.  It was very parklike, a gem within former mill cities, that I presume have seen lots of transformation in recent years, especially after GE left, unfortunately contaminating portions of the Hudson River. I felt safe though, and resorted to using lights the last five miles until arriving at my reserved hotel in Queensbury around 6 pm.

I had done my homework, though, and had a pleasant hotel experience. The staff made me feel safe, which as a solitary traveler, made a big difference. 

I also have been participating in the Coffeeneuring Challenge. I'd brought a special mug, filled it with hotel coffee (rather tasty too), and toted it about a mile to a park on the Hudson River, but not without a near disaster. The mug with silicone top seemed fairly secure, but the lid popped off and flew away as I gently coasted down a hill - I stared at the hot coffee, snug in my stem bag, until I managed to stop, avoiding as many pavement cracks and bumps as possible. I jogged back to retrieve the lid - fortunately without traffic - and secured it in place. Phew.

What a grand spot to sip coffee! Overlook Park is the confluence of the Hudson River and the beginning of the Feeder Canal Trail, the portion I had not visited the previous day.

I chatted with three people on a triple Commotion bicycle who were laughing and obviously trying to figure out how to maneuver together. 

I photographed them later when they caught up with me.

A few miles later, I crossed downtown Glens Falls and connected with another trail system to Lake George. I'd ridden this section about 15 years ago, but had forgotten how hilly it is! I struggled a few times and walked a couple short stretches where the trail arcs over a busy road - probably better suited to a lowered-geared bike - but I made it. 

Lake George is nostalgic for me and I wistfully thought of my father who has been gone for several years. We camped as a family with my parents a few times when our children were young. 

As it turns out, it was mostly uphill to Lake George. I rested and snacked on the shoreline, enjoying the emerging sunshine.

Exploring Roger's Island in Fort Edward and the Roger's Rangers monument.

Sunday was also the day we turned clocks back, so I had ample time for riding. The difficult part was the train didn't leave until 6:20, now in complete darkness. But the sun felt nice and I tried to find a lunch spot, but failed, not wanting to add extra miles. I made do with a Stewart's convenience store, had a warm place to hang out, recharge my phone, fill water bottles, and use of a bathroom. I also stumbled on a dollar store, bought a warmer hat (thinking of sitting later on the train platform), replaced threadbare gloves, and got snacks for the journey home.

Slickfin Brewery - what a local gem! Their flagship IPA is yummy.

By early afternoon I had retraced the Feeder Canal to Fort Edward and wondered what to do for the next several hours, besides basking in glorious warmth. I took advantage of pedaling around a bit, visiting Roger's Island, and relaxed in a lovely town park on the Hudson. For travelers, finding a public bathroom is critical and the singular one was closed so I resorted to the local, yet again, Stewart's Shop! 

Fort Edward is a sleepy town, but I did locate the hot spot after hearing a band, Googling, and discovering Slickfin Brewing - and only two blocks from the train station! Perfect. I sat outdoors next to a heater, and chatted with locals, eventually retreating inside to enjoy warmth when the sun went down. Though the brewery officially closed at 5, it was okay to stay until 5:45, when I helped stack chairs on tables. 

The return journey went off without a hitch and I pedaled home in the dark. Each day was about 38 miles.