Cycling Poughkeepsie - Rail Trails and History

Traveling via Amtrak to Poughkeepsie with my folding bike.

In mid-October, I loaded the Downtube Dyan for a solitary visit to the Poughkeepsie region. I've visited the area before and was enamored with both the cycling network and Hyde Park's Historic buildings. There was more to discover, plus to revisit the fabulous Walkway Over the Hudson. I'd ridden west, exploring trails around New Palz earlier this year, so my goal was to concentrate on the eastern side of the Hudson River.

I used large rear panniers to carry enough gear for 4 days, 3 nights at a hotel. My purple tote bag was handy for organizing anything extra, like hauling groceries, and became my daily carry-all on the front rack. I arrived at my hotel before dark, picked up groceries, then settled in to plot the next day's adventure.

Unlike the Roosevelt Mansion, the Vanderbilts spared no expense.

Following Google Maps, I avoided busy Route 9 and pedaled to the Vanderbilt Mansion. A National Park treasure, I also purchased a lifetime parks pass, one advantage of being 64 years old! 

National Parks tour guides are the best. I learned that all furnishings were imported. It's an eclectic mix of the Far East, gilded bedposts, tapestries; even the dining room carpet was gargantuan - never seen one that large! We toured 3 floors and the servant quarters. 

After lunch, I set off to visit Franklin Roosevelt's presidential library, a couple of miles down the road - the first presidential library. While the building appears single-story, the self-guided tour covers multiple floors (including underground), a chronicle of 4 presidential terms, preserved memorabilia, and special documents. 

Eleanor's many published works, and Franklin's adaptive automobile.

I was reminded again how much Eleanor Roosevelt contributed as first lady and, after Franklin's death, how she advised and influenced other politicians. Years ago, I read Eleanor, a comprehensive and very readable account of her amazing life - a highly recommended read. During the library tour, I learned that she wrote many books herself.

The highlight was underground. That's where Franklin's car was preserved, and where you get a preview, behind climate-controlled glass, of the classified documents stored vertically, like large pages in a book.

On historical overload, and too much time on my plantar fasciitis-affected foot, I rested, then hit the road, pedaling back to Poughkeepsie. I had wanted to also visit Eleanor's Cottage, but knew I would likely avoid returning the next day. I couldn't bear repeating the same, boring route. 

On the way back, I ate an early dinner at Millhouse Brewing, one of the recommended Poughkeepsie breweries. Millhouse was convenient and much larger than I expected. They had a tasty IPA, so I was content. I like sitting at the bar, bending a bartender's ear, for a local's view of the region.

The next day started out chilly, though I came prepared. I wanted to spend much of the day riding and give my foot a break. I regained the Empire State Trail via a slightly different route, pedaling near Vassar College, to see a little more of the city. I continued onto the trail, enjoying the barely changing autumn colors, and several miles later, ate a snack at Hopewell Junction, my turnaround point. I had been there on a previous trip, and like then, I appreciated the preserved railcars, station, signal tower, and amenities like a water fountain and bathroom.

Mid-Hudson Bridge.

On the return journey, I headed to the Walkway Over the Hudson and, from information boards, decided to ride the loop back on the Mid-Hudson Bridge, an iconic suspension bridge, with protected pedestrian/cycling lanes on both sides.

The fascinating, unexpected benefit of crossing was listening to Bridge Music, a push-button-activated speaker system, belting tunes under each bridge support. Joseph Bertolozzi composed several songs by rapping on bridge apparatus, creating unique percussive sounds. Threaded together, the songs are wonderful!

And of course, a great view of Walkway Over the Hudson.

A barge traveling downriver.

I'm impressed with Google's navigation. Routinely, I was routed through interesting, low-traffic neighborhoods back to my hotel, bypassing the busy road where my hotel was located and entering on a side road.

Part cemetery, part arboretum.

However, on the last morning, I decided to investigate the Poughkeepsie Rural Cemetery on that same busy road. I rode the sidewalk until it disappeared, eventually navigating a narrow angled rough strip between the guardrail and the road. Fortunately, it passed quickly, and the cemetery grounds were interesting!

The land, bordering the Hudson River, was donated by Smith Thompson, former politician and Supreme Court Justice, and wouldn't you know it, I stumbled onto his gravesite!

View from the Mid-Hudson Bridge with the Walkway in the background. Upper right is the spur to Marist University, and lower right, my hangout spot.

I headed towards the old Italian section and realized I was at the entrance to Mid-Hudson Bridge. I couldn't pass up the opportunity to listen to more Bridge Music...plus one more pass over the Walkway Over the Hudson...

With a fully-loaded bike and a 3pm Amtrak date, I didn't want to stray too far, fearing a breakdown without a backup plan, especially after I rolled over numerous acorns - one loud crack freaked me out, though my bike tires were fine. I discovered a mile-long spur trail heading towards Marist University, then hung out near the entrance to Walkway Over the Hudson. It was a good place to rest and people-watch, complete with a bike rack, a bench, and a bathroom, until it was time to roll the last mile to the train station.

What a fun few days!

Riding from Albany to Saratoga Springs - Zim Smith and other trails

Staying at the Olde Judge Mansion in Troy.

As with many of my Amtrak weekend adventures, it takes a good weather window to even think about planning a trip. Late August was perfect. I was thrilled my husband wanted to tag along, so I bought a reservation for his full-size bike, an Amtrak requirement.

To prepare for my first time using the Downtube Dyan - no reservations or cost to bring a folder - I practiced folding, protecting the frame, strapping everything together, and wheeling the folded bike. The curved handlebars required loosening to compact them against the frame, an extra step worth their added comfort.

I organized the protective foam pieces and strap in a nylon bag for easy access at the train platform. My husband and I rode our loaded bikes a few miles to the station, allowing extra time for the folding process and consolidating bags. I stowed the removable front rack in my panniers.

We stored our bikes safely inside the Bnb.

The train journey went off without a hitch, save for the suggestion to stow my bike in a tight closet - which would prove to be a problem later on. We exited in Albany, New York, mid-afternoon, planning to ride to Saratoga Springs the following day.

It's a gentle ride north on a decent bike route to Troy, a city I've stayed at a couple of times. It's hilly too. We pedaled around, mostly looking for an interesting grocery store, but ended up back across the Hudson River in a neighboring community before returning to Troy. A larger store satisfied both our diets - we found something we could bring to the BnB for dinner.

We had a pleasant evening and a nice breakfast on Sunday before setting off, riding north on the Uncle Sam Bikeway. Though I was familiar with the first 10 miles - it was all new to my husband!

In Waterford, the confluence of the Mohawk and Hudson River, we investigated the first lock and adjoining park, one end of the Erie Canal, before continuing north along the Champlain Canal towpath. Once in Mechanicville, we connected with a trail new to us both, the Zim Smith Trail, the impetus for the adventure, as it would bring us most of the way toward Saratoga Springs.

The trail was hilly and beautiful, often wooded, and connected parks all the way to Ballston Spa. Even watched a heated cricket match! I had trouble shifting into the much-needed lowest two gears and eventually gave up, making do with limited range. We regrouped in Ballston Spa, stopped for pizza slices, and plotted the next miles.

Beautiful architecture in the grand Saratoga Springs homes.

Surprise! After a couple of road miles, we found another off-road path along Geyser Road, and eventually connected with Railroad Run, cruising into central Saratoga Springs. A few hours before train departure, we rested in beautiful Congress Park before heading to the famed racetrack. 

Racing was in full swing. We hung outside a chain-link fence, watching the tall-legged, twitchy horses led to and from the stadium. The horses were hosed off after each race, and we even saw one spit second of a race whiz by. People didn't seem bothered that we stayed a while. What an experience! 

Our train was, unfortunately, delayed 1.5 hours. Ugh. But we grabbed some food and headed to the station. It's a newer Amtrak station. We noticed they were also under construction, building a much-needed level ramp to enter and exit the train. 

After 40+ miles, I was exhausted and frantic, struggling to fold my bike, though I reminded myself, no hurry, we had plenty of time. It was a long evening. We eventually rode home in the dark, arriving home sometime after 11 pm.

Bike update: our son, the bike mechanic, couldn't figure out exactly why the shifting was so horrible, but once he replaced both the cable and housing, it was fixed. We presumed the cable had become crimped after I stored my bicycle in the closet. I know better now. Always seek the end of each train car with plenty of space to store my bike. Since then, because we often have to enter the car at prescribed doors, I've wheeled the bike down a crowded aisle, and there's just enough room for this maneuver. Phew.

3 Day Tour Around Lake Champlain - Oh, the Lilacs!

On Memorial Day weekend, I set out on an easy, scenic 100-mile route circling northern Lake Champlain, doable with my current fitness, divided into 3 manageable days. I like to enjoy roadside wildflowers, architecture, historic markers, and even garage sales! I waited until the bike ferry opened; it's a pleasant lake crossing, bypassing a busy road in favor of pedaling South Hero's gorgeous Westside Road. With some rain in the forecast, I hoped the light itinerary would allow me to choose a dry window for cycling each day.

Lilacs were in bloom, their heady scent perfuming the route, so much so that I dubbed my adventure "the lilac tour." Mmmmm.

Point Au Roche's rooms purposely lack a TV, overlook manicured grounds, and have private decks. It's a wonderful spot to enjoy birdlife, and I even saw a woodchuck.

One of my favorite places to stay is Point Au Roche Lodge. Located at "D" on the map. It's a low-key, rustic place with lovely, large rooms, a gazebo to relax in (or park your bike discreetly out of sight), and a kitchen to cook your own food. I brought some items from home for dinner and breakfast, supplemented with convenience store food.

The lower right photo shows the remains of a wooden railroad trestle that once crossed the lake.

It rained early on the second day, but let up by 10am, so  I cycled northward on an amazing tailwind, all the way to Rouses Point! I ate a breakfast bagel at Lakeside Coffee Roasters, relaxed for an hour, then slowly climbed and descended the Missisquoi Bridge to Vermont, amidst buffeting sidewinds. 

The roadway was busy, though with wide shoulders, until I turned towards Alburgh, then located the Alburgh Rail Trail, a few yards off the main road. The trail is only 4 miles, but the remoteness and nearly singletrack through wetlands were a delight, with a birdsong serenade. The trail conveniently intersected with a side road to my destination, the Alburgh RV Resort, located at "H" on the map.

It was raining by the time I arrived at the campground, so I ducked into the recreation hall. I had a good experience last year at this spot. While primarily an RV resort, there's a communal grassy area beneath trees that serves as a tent area; people are nice; there's a lakefront area, and I called ahead to pay, because reception is often closed, though the proprietors are only a phone call away. It was a chilly 50F and still windy, so I snuggled inside my packable jacket - a necessary item - and read for a while, until the rain stopped. I set up my tent, then returned to the sheltered entryway to cook dinner before settling down to watch a movie on my Kindle in the tent.

I was warm and comfortable, earplugs blocking out the rain that continued overnight, but for some odd reason, that has never happened before, I didn't sleep for more than an hour - that was a long night! 

I had planned to make coffee on the third morning, but after packing up a soaked tent, I wanted to start on my 40+ mile journey south, once the storm had passed, knowing I could eat breakfast at a Maplefields convenience store 20 minutes away. The coffee and waffle breakfast sandwich tasted great!

The rest of the ride was pleasant. A slight headwind didn't hinder progress; Google's routing kept me off busy Route 2, and the lilac fragrance freshened the gentle island miles. I'm always amazed at the nicer waterfront homes slowly emerging along the lakeshore. I stopped for a rest at Hero's Welcome, engaged with cycle tourists from St. Louis, and waved to a lone tourist soon after I set off. 

I ate half my sandwich at the familiar Grand Isle ferry landing, filled water bottles, and an hour later returned on the bike ferry, arriving home at 3pm.

What a great route!

2024 Rewind

2024 started off well, plunged into winter conditions, easily adapting to riding safely on snowy bike paths. I set my yearly intentions to have something to look forward to - it's the way I roll.

I broke my ribs in late January. Fortunately, it was only a hiccup in my cycling life. I fully recovered in 6 weeks and attended the Philly Bike Expo. The bonus was meeting and riding with online friends! 

I put together these bags for our son the bike mechanic. No two are alike.

On the creative front, I explored gouache painting for the second year for the Coffeenuring Challenge, tried a new stem bag pattern, and later sewed 4 more.

In June, I visited our son in Fort Collins, Colorado, and came home in awe of their cycling infrastructure and surrounding beauty.

Pine Creek Rail Trail in Pennsylvania.

My husband and I purposely sought new local trails in 2024, experiencing the D&H Rail Trail, Adirondack Rail Trail, two trails in New Hampshire, and a weeklong adventure in Pennsylvania. 

I went on solitary Amtrak adventures: riding one-way from Hudson, NY to Saratoga Springs during peak foliage (part one) and finishing a few weeks later, and from Castleton, VT homeward.

It's interesting to see the Monday-Friday progression.

Yearly accounting: I sorted the rack situation between the Rachel and the Hard Rock so both are touring-ready. I made it, finally, to the Philly Bike Expo after several years of trying (the pandemic didn't help). Due to two years of flooding, what's still elusive is riding across Vermont and back. 

I went out of 2024 with a bang, finishing the year with 3532 miles!

2024 Autumn Dahon Ride - Try, Try Again

Spoiler alert: I made it!

If plans go awry, get back out there and try again! Recently, when I set off on a 3-day journey via folding bike, a slashed tire sidelined the completion of day 3. Serendipity intervened in the form of a stranger who delivered me and my bicycle to the Amtrak station for the journey home. Luckily, another weekend weather window opened 3 weeks later, this time for an overnight only, hopefully, this time, making it to Saratoga National Historical Park.

With the Amtrak schedule running an hour late, I would be pushing daylight. However, most of the route to Troy was familiar, including the comfortable B&B. In addition, I was down to the wire, finishing the Coffeeneuring Challenge, and the only viable option open late was a Starbucks. Somehow I managed the visit: the latte was terrible, though the franchise sported the best, visible, sheltered bike rack. Go figure.

After a comfortable night's sleep, I set off northward, repeating miles in a frosty morning that gradually warmed.

I made it to the park! It was hilly, however, so between my flatlander legs and limited gears, I stuck to the main road following a ravine. There was a lot to explore, so a return trip would be necessary. At the visitor center, I hiked for 2 miles, guided by an online tour, then set off to Saratoga Springs and later Amtrak reservation. I enjoyed Google's hilly rural route by horse farmland, then around a portion of Lake Saratoga and its well-heeled lakeside homes, and eventually riding a main route into the city with wide shoulders. The gargantuan famous racetrack was a shocker, including the accompanying barns, stables, accommodation, parking lots, and museum. As I've said before, when you allow ample time for a new adventure, surprises make the journey.

With sunset at 4:30 in mind, I had ample time to safely pedal to the train station in daylight, so I visited Whitman Brewery, chosen for its long list of IPAs - I'm a big fan - and accompanying food. The burger and fries were delicious. Whitman was a good choice, so if you're in the area, check them out.

Remember, adventures are not always about the miles, but about encountering something new. 

Three Day Dahon Adventure During Peak Foliage

I prefer to streamline luggage into as few bags as possible-less to keep track of.

In late October, peak foliage and weather aligned for a two-night, 3-day one-way ride on my Dahon Boardwalk. It was also an experiment, hauling extra gear on small wheels.  As mentioned before, I enjoy taking Amtrak, especially with a folding bike, because I avoid the standard bicycle reservation. Folding bikes are treated as luggage. The goal this time was to ride more of the Empire State Trail, a mostly trail-only segment from Hudson, NY northward, then explore the Saratoga Battlefield - a place I've meant to visit for 30+ years.

After several hours of staring out the train window at the spectacular fall color, anxious to ride, I arrived at 3 pm in Hudson, NY. Time was of the essence. I had 3 hours of daylight to ride 17 miles to a motel. 

The sunshine and warmth were intoxicating. I immediately stumbled onto these abandoned Hudson River fishing camps and I remembered something about their controversial removal. I couldn't linger, so I immediately connected with the Empire Trail—straight up a hill!

The Electric Trolley portion of the Empire State Trail was a gentle roller coaster, running beneath powerlines, overall hillier than a standard rail trail, yet the route was straightforward with adequate signage. The amount of on-road sections were more frequent than I expected, however, lower traffic, and winding through the colorful landscape beside a river had its merit. Pushing daylight, I managed to buy food and arrive at a motel by sunset.

I had invited a friend to join me, but she wasn't feeling well. I'm comfortable traveling solo so I don't let the lack of companionship deter me. It's important to keep exploring, and I certainly couldn't pass up this opportunity during peak foliage!

The next morning was chilly but I came prepared, so with a little backtracking I was soon back on route, heading northwest towards Albany. More rollers, more sublime scenery, including riding beside beautiful lakes.

Nassau Lake.

By late morning, I rode by more urban areas, connected with neighborhood roads, and eventually lost a lot of elevation in Rensselaer/Troy communities, arriving at the Hudson River. 

From there it was a familiar route, heading northward on the Mohawk Hudson Hike Bike Trail to my accommodation in Troy. Well ahead of check-in time, I decided to enjoy the last 10 miles.

I noticed that my front bag was coming apart, though it would probably hold up for the rest of the trip. Between the gravel trail, some dirt roads, the possibly overstuffed bag unlatched from its Klickfix attachment a couple times, though not dangerously so - I wind the shoulder strap around the handlebars for extra security. I caught the problem immediately in both instances and stopped to reattach it firmly in place. 

I spent the next several miles savoring the sunshine, thinking it was probably time to investigate using a front rack. Initially, I didn't want to add more weight to a 30 lb. bicycle - also carrying it on board trains - but redistributing the weight near the front wheel would likely improve handling and visibility, offsetting added rack weight. I already own midsize panniers. I also worried that the plastic Klickfix attachment might fail under too much load - the problem sometimes with proprietary gear. A small duffel or trunk bag on the rear rack could further enhance carrying capacity. 

Entering Troy, I found a riverside spot and enjoyed an early dinner at Browns Brewing due to the lack of eateries near my accommodation.

Afterward, I pedaled on, and scouted the B&B spot, but still early for check-in, nearby I discovered an entrance to Oakwood Cemetery. I pushed my bike up the steep road until gaining the plateau. What a stunning, winding, beautifully landscaped cemetery with many old graves, gates, monuments, and churches! I could spend hours wandering the grounds and put it on my radar to return someday.

Uncle Sam Bikeway. 

Upon my descent, I also found the Uncle Sam Bikeway, a trail I would take the next morning northward that would bypass narrow roads through neighborhoods.

Between the cemetery and the newly discovered trail, it felt like gifts. I allow extra time and/or don't focus on riding all day because I thoroughly enjoy finding new treasures.

The third day started wonderfully, chatting with an English couple at breakfast, setting off riding the colorful Uncle Sam Bikeway, then northward on the Champlain Canalway Trail.

The trail ended and I followed Empire State Trail signs northward on secondary roads, hugging the west side of the Hudson River. In Stillwater, I ate lunch in a lovely riverside park complete with a reconstructed blockhouse, watching and listening to geese and ducks in the water. 

Five miles later, I heard a bang and my bike was forced to a halt. Yikes, this wasn't good! I got off the road into the grass, and inspected the flat rear tire, discovering a 1.5" slash. Not good at all. Checking the road berm, I found sharp, flat scissors. Somehow, I hadn't seen them. I spent the next hour, dismantling the rear wheel, not an easy task, but I had brought a special long-handled 14/15mm wrench for axle and pedal removal, booted the gash with sections of blown tube, and inserted a new tube. Unfortunately, as suspected, I couldn't inflate the tire much without the new tube bulging through the cut. 

Two vehicles had stopped to see if I was okay. I assured them and waved them on. After the "repair" I rolled the bike - at least it was rollable - back to an intersection where a route headed more directly to Saratoga Springs and the Amtrak Station where I had a return reservation later that day. With my thumb out, the second car immediately pulled over (a vehicle with a bike on the back - yay!) and Anita brought me to a bike shop in Saratoga Springs. Unfortunately, the mechanics didn't have a narrow enough tire, so Anita then drove me to the Amtrak Station, gave me her bag of leftover pretzels, and felt bad about leaving me there 2 hours before departure. Holy cow, what a kind woman! 

My adventure proved that it's worth allowing extra time and cyclists are generally wonderful people. I texted Anita when I got home so she knew I was safe. I had also invited her to come and ride with me in Vermont. I plan to pay this favor forward to others.

As for visiting the Saratoga Battlefield, I'm monitoring the fall weather. I now know a lovely B&B place to return to for a fresh redo of that day.