Cycling Poughkeepsie - Rail Trails and History

Traveling via Amtrak to Poughkeepsie with my folding bike.

In mid-October, I loaded the Downtube Dyan for a solitary visit to the Poughkeepsie region. I've visited the area before and was enamored with both the cycling network and Hyde Park's Historic buildings. There was more to discover, plus to revisit the fabulous Walkway Over the Hudson. I'd ridden west, exploring trails around New Palz earlier this year, so my goal was to concentrate on the eastern side of the Hudson River.

I used large rear panniers to carry enough gear for 4 days, 3 nights at a hotel. My purple tote bag was handy for organizing anything extra, like hauling groceries, and became my daily carry-all on the front rack. I arrived at my hotel before dark, picked up groceries, then settled in to plot the next day's adventure.

Unlike the Roosevelt Mansion, the Vanderbilts spared no expense.

Following Google Maps, I avoided busy Route 9 and pedaled to the Vanderbilt Mansion. A National Park treasure, I also purchased a lifetime parks pass, one advantage of being 64 years old! 

National Parks tour guides are the best. I learned that all furnishings were imported. It's an eclectic mix of the Far East, gilded bedposts, tapestries; even the dining room carpet was gargantuan - never seen one that large! We toured 3 floors and the servant quarters. 

After lunch, I set off to visit Franklin Roosevelt's presidential library, a couple of miles down the road - the first presidential library. While the building appears single-story, the self-guided tour covers multiple floors (including underground), a chronicle of 4 presidential terms, preserved memorabilia, and special documents. 

Eleanor's many published works, and Franklin's adaptive automobile.

I was reminded again how much Eleanor Roosevelt contributed as first lady and, after Franklin's death, how she advised and influenced other politicians. Years ago, I read Eleanor, a comprehensive and very readable account of her amazing life - a highly recommended read. During the library tour, I learned that she wrote many books herself.

The highlight was underground. That's where Franklin's car was preserved, and where you get a preview, behind climate-controlled glass, of the classified documents stored vertically, like large pages in a book.

On historical overload, and too much time on my plantar fasciitis-affected foot, I rested, then hit the road, pedaling back to Poughkeepsie. I had wanted to also visit Eleanor's Cottage, but knew I would likely avoid returning the next day. I couldn't bear repeating the same, boring route. 

On the way back, I ate an early dinner at Millhouse Brewing, one of the recommended Poughkeepsie breweries. Millhouse was convenient and much larger than I expected. They had a tasty IPA, so I was content. I like sitting at the bar, bending a bartender's ear, for a local's view of the region.

The next day started out chilly, though I came prepared. I wanted to spend much of the day riding and give my foot a break. I regained the Empire State Trail via a slightly different route, pedaling near Vassar College, to see a little more of the city. I continued onto the trail, enjoying the barely changing autumn colors, and several miles later, ate a snack at Hopewell Junction, my turnaround point. I had been there on a previous trip, and like then, I appreciated the preserved railcars, station, signal tower, and amenities like a water fountain and bathroom.

Mid-Hudson Bridge.

On the return journey, I headed to the Walkway Over the Hudson and, from information boards, decided to ride the loop back on the Mid-Hudson Bridge, an iconic suspension bridge, with protected pedestrian/cycling lanes on both sides.

The fascinating, unexpected benefit of crossing was listening to Bridge Music, a push-button-activated speaker system, belting tunes under each bridge support. Joseph Bertolozzi composed several songs by rapping on bridge apparatus, creating unique percussive sounds. Threaded together, the songs are wonderful!

And of course, a great view of Walkway Over the Hudson.

A barge traveling downriver.

I'm impressed with Google's navigation. Routinely, I was routed through interesting, low-traffic neighborhoods back to my hotel, bypassing the busy road where my hotel was located and entering on a side road.

Part cemetery, part arboretum.

However, on the last morning, I decided to investigate the Poughkeepsie Rural Cemetery on that same busy road. I rode the sidewalk until it disappeared, eventually navigating a narrow angled rough strip between the guardrail and the road. Fortunately, it passed quickly, and the cemetery grounds were interesting!

The land, bordering the Hudson River, was donated by Smith Thompson, former politician and Supreme Court Justice, and wouldn't you know it, I stumbled onto his gravesite!

View from the Mid-Hudson Bridge with the Walkway in the background. Upper right is the spur to Marist University, and lower right, my hangout spot.

I headed towards the old Italian section and realized I was at the entrance to Mid-Hudson Bridge. I couldn't pass up the opportunity to listen to more Bridge Music...plus one more pass over the Walkway Over the Hudson...

With a fully-loaded bike and a 3pm Amtrak date, I didn't want to stray too far, fearing a breakdown without a backup plan, especially after I rolled over numerous acorns - one loud crack freaked me out, though my bike tires were fine. I discovered a mile-long spur trail heading towards Marist University, then hung out near the entrance to Walkway Over the Hudson. It was a good place to rest and people-watch, complete with a bike rack, a bench, and a bathroom, until it was time to roll the last mile to the train station.

What a fun few days!