2023 Erie Canal Bike Tour

The start of the Erie Canal Trail in Tonawanda.

The basics

As with any bike tour, there's more than one way of doing things, so overall impressions are worth noting to help future travelers on the same route. The actual Erie Canal mileage, from Tonawanda to Albany, is 350 miles. Tack on 10-12 miles if starting in Buffalo, riding the Shoreline Trail to the start. The prevailing wind is from the west - our journey was west to east - though we encountered headwinds 3 of 7 days. We had allotted more days to finish, but averaged 50 mile days to avoid a forecasted, unchanging, rainy day. We were lucky to have not encountered any rain at all. Leaving a car in Albany, we took our bikes and gear on Amtrak to Buffalo, stayed a night in a hotel, and set off the following day. In general, it was a positive experience and highly recommended, especially if you enjoy history.

Why did we choose the Erie Canal?

The trail has been complete and popular for many years. Living within 3 hours by car from Albany, the route is not far from our home. Vacations usually took my husband and I further field, by plane, or to the C&O Canal region. It took the pandemic to open our eyes to nearby trails and/or regions easily accessed by Amtrak. Impressed with other segments of the recently completed Empire State Trail system, the Erie Canal route was the next logical goal. We chose May to avoid the crowds and potential difficulty securing accommodation.

Learning History

I am most intrigued if cycling and history intersect. As we learned from excellent historical signs, central New York was once the breadbasket, so thus the impetus to move crops efficiently to the Atlantic coast. The canal was started in central New York in the 1820s, and construction went both directions eventually connecting Lake Eric to the Hudson River waterway. In some regions the canal was enlarged three times and/or sections were abandoned and wider canal sections rebuilt as traffic increased. The canal trail follows all three portions, depending upon the region. From the bike seat, we were often privy to new canal, old canal, railroad (our trail often was on a former rail line) to nearby highway with trucks hauling goods, spanning 230 years of moving goods to market.

Flora and fauna

Spring was in full force with blooming trees (apple and cherry), pink and white honeysuckle bushes, wildflowers (trillium, buttercups), and fragrant lilacs from adjoining properties. Flower petals swirled in the ever-present breeze.

In the central portion it was evident that farming is still king, Corn, grain, and abundant apple orchards (in white full bloom) as far as the eye can see. Large double-tired tractors were constant companions in the fields.

We encountered a few snakes on the trail: a black and white variety that we couldn't identify, and a dark mottled kind that I later identified as a watersnake. Canadian Geese and goslings were ever-present and we often had to ride single file to gently move them off the trail, the guard geese, mouth open honking, often flapping their wings. There were muskrat, beaver, great blue herons landing and taking off from the old canals pea soup-like waters, woodchucks scampering across the trail, a few deer, blue jays and one Baltimore oriole.

Route navigation

There was impressive signage and navigation through cities, most notably in Syracuse where there was phenomenal in terms of moving bicycles through congested areas.. Overall there is no shortage of Empire State Trail and Erie Canal signage, or on Buffalo's Shoreline Trail. It's hard to get lost.

Accommodation options

We opted to camp as much as possible, but found that campsites weren't abundant within two miles of the trail, and our personal barometer to average 50 daily trail miles didn't align well with private campsites and/or lock camping. One would need to stagger between 20 and 70 miles between camping sites. Beside staying in Buffalo, we stayed in hotels two more nights, one because of cold, the other because of lack of accessible camping.

Trail towns and signage

Communities embrace the canal trail with parks and parking access at most road junctions. The amount of parks was astounding though 90% didn't provide trash cans, portolets, or water. We had to get creative with acquiring enough water: take advantage of store bathrooms, in one instance walking into a diner, where a waitress kindly filled my bottles.

With abundant park access, information in trail towns was lacking. Intersections with small town main streets left us guessing: did they have a store, bank, public bathroom, bakery, ice cream place, eateries? We wondered why towns didn't capitalize on tourism dollars with simple direction signs.

The recycling dilemma

As with most travel, recycling is difficult. Coming from a state that recycles everything, even required composting, we know it's as easy as providing dual trash/recycling containers. We didn't find recycling receptacles in parks, town centers, campgrounds or hotels. It left us baffled.

Free camping the first night along the canal.

Trail surfaces

In general, we guess the overall trail surface is 60% stone dust, 30% paved. The remainder is a mix of double-track and rougher gravel. There is an ugly on-road 20 mile detour away from the canal on a semi-busy, hilly of course, road made bearable to us at least, by a wonderful tailwind and reasonable road shoulder.

I had a love/hate relationship with paved trail sections, especially around Rochester. When pavement is smooth it's wonderful, though when they become buckled, they are jolting, cracks often hidden through sun dappled surface, sending me cursing and standing on the pedals. I preferred the smooth, predictable stone dust portions that was the predominate surface.

Equipment review

My Bassi Rachel step through, overall, performed well. It's fairly lightweight, setup tubeless with V-brakes, which helped when I needed to remove the front wheel, and suspend the bike from it's rear wheel on Amtrak's closet-like vertical hook storage. I used two rear panniers in conjunction with a Jack-the Bike Rack on the handlebars, which housed my sleep system. At first I loaded the three components into a duffel on the top, hoping to contain all, but after the load shimmied on a 2 mile ride from the train station to our hotel in Buffalo, I moved two items beneath the rack to distribute some of the weight closer to the wheel. I repurposed the duffel bag for food, attached on the rear rack, which proved more versatile. The Jack Rack sits too high on Rachel's long head tube, so I'll be investigating other removable front end solutions for a future adventure. The tubeless tires were efficient and comfortable, requiring air in the rear wheel two or three times. The lack of tread though, caused me to slip on newer trail sections with looser gravel. Because of possible toe overlap with the front wheel, I experimented with Power Grips foot retention. I found them awkward and used them very little.

Because the mid-May weather ranged from 31-75F, it was difficult to pack the right amount of clothing, though I did pretty well. I discovered the low end of my Cosmic quilt - mid 40s - and supplemented with extra layers and wool socks. We stayed indoors on the coldest night. I wished I had brought overmitts in addition to my thin gloves. I used every clothing piece, except for the unneeded rain gear, and layered when needed. I brought 2 padded shorts, 1 padded knicker, 1 unpadded knicker, long unpadded tights for sleeping in and/or as a layering piece, cotton t-short for sleeping, 1 wicking bike top, and a lightweight longsleeve sunshirt, a baselayer, and a breathable, semi-windproof jacket, plus a thermal full zip layer (I wore these latter two a lot). I brought a couple other items, but the point is, we encountered a diverse range of weather that made the layering system a good idea.

Parting thoughts

I am happy to have completed the trail in 7 days without ever really preparing ahead of time. However, in hindsight, to appropriately enjoy the region and spend less time on a bike saddle, I would've preferred to slow down and ride around 40 miles each day. I had 4 more days of vacation so there was no hurry. I wished we had stayed at a couple locks and went to a museum.

The Amtrak route continued on from Buffalo and ended at Niagara Falls. Had we realized, we would've started from a more scenic location as it was the same distance to the start of the Erie Canal.

I'm interested in reading further about canal history. Any historical fiction suggestions?

Getting to Know the Bassi Rachel

CL Cycles is a Montreal shop and develops their own brand of Bassi steel frames and complete bikes.

CL Cycles' Bassi Rachel frame caught my eye a couple years ago. It was their 2021 model updates, however: ability to accommodate wider tires, a second water bottle cage mount, and V-brake compatibility, that made me take a second look.

I test rode two sizes to determine which fit best.

What I initially liked about the Rachel was its shorter wheelbase and sparkly Beaujolais paint color. I could start from scratch and pay attention to overall bike weight. Our bike mechanic son built wheels, set them up tubeless for starters, working after hours to help keep my costs down. I checked in periodically to watch the build progress. I specified 2 X Low Gearing (love that about the Clem), easy shifting, and it was fine to go with used parts if it made sense. I am picky about handlebars though, so I bought Nitto's Dove bar, a comparable equivalent to the much loved but out-of-stock Soma Oxford's that graced the Clem. 

I vacillated over the housing color - too many choices - and my son suggested grey because it was classy.

Components include Nitto's Dove handle bar, a new Light & Motion coordinated headlight, and used, grimy Ergon Cork Grips, a Velo Orange stem (though I asked for removable faceplate style), SRAM drivetrain and Shimano silver and black click shifters (used?), which are brilliant for my arthritic hands! 

One day, Simple Green and I attacked the grips and I whittled corks for bar end plugs. 

Riding the the Rachel is like night and day from it's predecessor! 

Simply put, it's fast. Our son explained that lightweight wheels, set up tubeless, make a big difference, so I'm glad I sprang for whatever he suggested. I am leery of touring with this setup because it's foreign, and as much as I love 1980's bikes, new bicycle technology has advantages. At any rate, the rims and Rene Herse tires can accommodate tubes, should I wish to go that route in the future.

I have always loved this simply styled English-made steel rack. It graced my husband's 1970's Peugeot when we rode across the country, then I adopted it on my skinny-tired Peugeot, and now with an extension (refitted by Old Spokes Home) it's a perfect complement on Rachel.

Rachel's 55cm frame has 700c wheels.

With a rear rack, I've gained some functionality - something I require of all my bikes. A kickstand is next, along with a setback seat post. Since Rachel (pronounced Ra-CHEL in Canada) is my touring bicycle, fenders and a front rack are on the agenda. I'd like to explore Velo Orange or PDW black fenders, and investigate Jack the Bike Rack as a removable front rack option - made available to the public soon.

Anything I'm missing?

The Attraction

For a number of years I've admired a handful of bike models. And like a true aficionado, of course, they are not bicycles I currently own. Nor are the picks exactly similar either, so it's really confounding what I find especially alluring about these four styles.

1. Raleigh One-Way
2. Breezer Uptown LS series (upper right)
3. Jamis Commuter
4. Betty Foy (lower right)

I used to think that all were bikes with great utility, resembling a mountain bike in some form. In other words, they'd make great commuters, which after looking at the grid above you easily could see that's true. Each example could be outfitted to ride to work or haul groceries. In fact, there are endless bikes that would fit the mold. So it must be more than that, I think.

Raleigh One Way, Photo credit: Raleigh Bicycles

The above iteration of the Raleigh One Way certainly doesn't fit my idea of a practical commuter. One speed bikes are not ideal for hilly Burlington, yet I'm repeatedly drawn to this machine. And, to be fair, I've seen this bike with a front rack and upright handlebars, which adds more functionality. After checking out the Raleigh website, and admiring a few more models, I believe it's the simple, and beautifully retro paint scheme that does it for me.

Case in point:

Raleigh Port Townsend, Photo credit: Raleigh Bicycles

Like the One-Way, the Port Townsend is black—my least favorite color—yet I still find it irresistible. Sweet front rack, too. Single gear or multi-gear, I'm in love.

Raleigh Clubman Mixte, Photo credit: Raleigh Bicycles

Even the Clubman Mixte is appealing in boring white. I'm definitely smitten with Raleigh's paint job, plus fenders, and leather toe straps with clips that round out the overall retro look.

Uptown 8 LS in Gloss Port Wine, Photo credit: Breezer Bikes

Uptown Fleet LS in Gloss Silver Slate, Photo credit: Breezer Bikes

And it's not only the thin steel-tubing frame that has its appeal. The Breezer line is based on fatter aluminum frames with chromoly fork. I'm attracted to their Uptown step-through models. I like the upright style, the complimentary fenders, the nice-looking chain guard. And, you can get internally geared options and lighting. All models come with a rack. There's something about the short bracing above the crank that not only, I presume, provides frame strength, but visually enhances the stylish curve, similar to a loop frame bike. I also like the 26" wide wheels, testament to Joe Breezer's roots in mountain bikes. I'm pleased they are once again offering sporty colors, though I'd like to see kelly green and orange added for more variety.

Jamis Commuter 1, Photo credit: Jamis Bikes

Jamis Commuter 1 step-over, Photo credit: Jamis Bikes

I normally shy away from sloping top tube models. It's more difficult to fit fenders, racks, and have ample space for large water bottles—not to mention two containers. But that's because I usually compare these models to my Trek or my husband's Bridgestones—older mountain bikes that we've adapted for touring. When I throw out that line of thinking and study the Jamis Commuter bicycles with an eye towards style and function, I now understand why I admire this bike. It comes equipped with rack, fenders, easy grip shifting, a simple front crank shield, and larger wheels for zippy commutes. With it's seemingly longer wheel base, it looks like a comfortable ride. The sloping frames are common around Burlington, sold at nearby shops. I definitely prefer this to the step-over model, for style. Jamis offers 4 models in their commuter line, a testament to the growing popularity of bikes for the commuting masses.

LGRAB's Betty Foy. Photo credit: Let's Go Ride a Bike

I like that the Betty Foy fits taller women. With my 5'8" leggy height, it's the one caveat with my current step through bike—the Ross's 19" frame is a tad small. I'm not especially tall compared with many women, but older step-over mountain bikes were not made to fit comfortably for longer rides. The Betty Foy is designed for a broad spectrum, and because it's made in the U.S. you can build it with components of your choosing for a proper fit. I love the color. Much like the Bianchi mint green that is a recognizable brand, aqua defines the Betty Foy. But make no mistake, this is a well-built bike too, one of many Rivendell signature styles. I especially like its Mixte style, swept back bars, ability to handle beefy tires. Racks and mustache bars are a must on a Betty Foy of my choosing, plus cream Schwalbe tires.

What do all these have in common?
In retrospect, all these bikes are equipped with racks, fenders, wider tires—my preference for sure. It's not a major revelation, but it's the style of each that time and time again I come back to. Each of these models—and in many cases more than one from the same brand—has panache that speaks to me. I presume my impressions would change, if I ever jump on for a ride, but it's an interesting concept to ponder. With so many designs to choose from, initial responses are very important and hold the power to sway multitudes.

Are there certain bicycles that captivate your psyche?

Searching for My Perfect Bike

I responded to a Craig's List ad this past week to get more information on a "Women's Bianchi" for 15.00. As with some of these ads, they do not include a thorough description. The image was enticing, displaying a red Mixte bike with thumbshifters and cantilever brakes, but it was also an unclear photo taken from a distance. The seller lived 30 miles away, so instead of immediately going to look at it I requested more information. A 15.00 bike could be a rust bucket, or old and of little value to the seller, or even stolen (thus the cheap price). I am usually leery of this type of situation, but the seller was forthcoming and provided the year it was purchased-1990-and even the serial number, along with directions to his house.

I researched the model: a 1990 Bianchi Avalanche. There is not much information on this style. The bike is a quasi Mixte - it does not have twin lateral top tubes that meet at the rear axle - but is one top tube that connects with lugs to the seat tube. From there two separate seat stays go to the rear axle. It was not what I had expected, yet the lug work was still attractive. Here is a black version of the bike:

Photo credit: socialbicycles.com

I decided to go look at the Bianchi over the Halloween weekend. The frame appeared small for me but I would have to see it to confirm it either way. On Friday I noticed the listing was removed from Craig's List and I checked with the seller that it was gone.

I was mildly disappointed. It would have been nice to check out this style of bike. Because of the Bianchi's chromoly frame I know the weight would be lighter than my Ross. As much as I love the Mixte style what really matters to me is that it's a step through frame, without toe overlap, lightweight, low gearing, can accommodate racks and fenders, will have multiple positioned handlebars - I prefer mustache type. I do not mind working on this bike, or swapping out the Ross's parts. My perfect bike will be one that I can use on a multi-day bike tour. It's also one that I can ride in my later years when these bones can't move as quickly. One thing is for sure: my perception of the ultimate bike is ever-evolving.

Montreal Mixtes

I began photographing every Mixte that I saw and eventually stopped after I realized that Montreal has an abundance of these beautiful machines. Burlington has no such claim to Mixte madness so I was in seventh Mixte heaven.

Crazy for Mixtes

The Trek Bellevile, photo used from bike hugger

I'm not sure where this came from, this lust for Mixtes. I saw two today out on our city streets: one was a white 10-speed Bianchi, another was one on someone's porch (sigh), unfortunately too far away for me to get a good look. There's something about that long sloping split top tube that extends all the way to the rear axle. It adds that bit of uniqueness, that extra strength, and it's increasingly the upright style of bike that I've been gravitating to these past couple years. The mixte is gorgeous.

Some Mixtes I love:
The Betty Foy
Let's go Ride a Bike has a nice video of her Betty
The Linus Mixte 3
Simply Bike's Peugeot
and Lovely Bicycle's Royal H. Mixte (scroll to 4th bike)

A Mixte blog:
The Mixte Gallery

And before I (or you also) get too crazed by buying the first old Mixte I (or you) see at a garage sale, there are some worthwhile factors to consider as presented by Lovely Bicycle.

I'm trying to reign in my excitement - though it's difficult - and I definitely do NOT need another bike, but it's sure fun to look!

What's your favorite Mixte?