Click here for the Introduction.
28 miles, Saturday, August 28
The sun rose over the distant hills. A half moon glowed, shimmering
across the lake to our tent on its shore. Ducks quacked. We were among a
handful of early risers, eating breakfast at 6 a.m. A windy evening had left
the tent dry; one less task to do before setting off. By At 8:15 Andy and I
lifted our legs over the saddle; another adventure, another landscape most
surely lay ahead. I loved those perfect starts to a day.
The Silver Road and it's lace curtains. Photo credit: Flickr, revjett and rjcgrove |
With another tailwind we followed the Silver Road through
the Erzgebirge Mountains. The campground manager provided brochures written in
English. On the border with the Czech Republic the region was a snake-full of silver mining towns during the
1500-1700s. It was also known for its lace-making. Indeed, every home we went
by displayed white lace curtains - a dainty touch in this rugged land.
Again, the terrain was tough with steep climbs and descents,
eventually climbing a long valley past an alpine ski area. The mountains
attract many visitors. Fortunately for us, they all weren’t out on a Sunday
morning.
I felt stronger today. Enjoying the scenery, I constantly
looked over my shoulder at the vistas. The green pastures, the villages
identified by pudgy black towered churches, and ugly smokestacks, surprisingly
without billowing smoke. We wondered if they’d been closed since reunification
or the demand had dwindled for their products.
The clouds were forming all day and eventually an ugly
draping curtain covered the sky. The temperature dropped. With the
disappointing reminder of earlier soggy days we bolted for cover beneath the wide
wings of a gas station/store.
For two hours we waited in gusty rain. But the time it
slowed to a drizzle we set out. A wet chill shivered up my rain jacket’s
sleeves and zipper. The highway descended again and we turned onto a quieter
road. My hands were cold and numb. Ahead, the unconfirmed campsite near the
Czech border wasn’t inviting.
Another village in the Erzgebirge Mountains. Photo credit: Echt-Erzgebirge |
We started climbing a narrow valley beside a beautiful,
trickling stream. A sign on a house advertised a bed, shower, TV, and coffee.
It was too good to be true. The promise of a warm room won out and we gave the
proprietor 60 marks, leaving us with only 10 left. The irony was that as we unpacked
the weather improved and sunshine sparkled on the garden in front of their
home. We shook our heads with big smiles.
Later, the owners, husband and wife, came by to ask a
question and ended up visiting for an hour and a half. We used our small
dictionary, hand signals, scribbling pictures, and eventually aided by their
daughter’s old English schoolbooks, we managed to communicate a few ideas. The
husband used to be an upholsterer until the reunification. He explained that
there wasn’t much work since the assimilation, though our experience showed
that at least there was highway and sewer construction, along with new buildings
going up. He needed to leave by 7 a.m. We never learned his current source of
employment.
62 miles, Monday, August 29
As we prepared to let ourselves out of the garage in the
morning, a couple books caught Andy’s eye from a laundry basket - presumably
left for discard or storage. He leafed through an English tutorial, complete
with a comparison sketch. In politics it listed Communism for East Germany, The
USA’s Communist party, Socialists, and ACLU, but not one mention of Democrats
or Republicans. It was an amusing look at the propaganda fed to former East
Germany’s young.
Steinbach. Photo credit: Erzgebirge |
Within a few miles of the Czech border, we climbed through the
beautiful Thuringian Forest. In Steinbach colorful crepe paper decorated
houses, clotheslines, and fences. Lifelike dummies posed in front of homes in
various positions of work or drink. There was a math teacher, woodworker, a
drunken man slouched in a chair. Some had small signs attached. A banner arched
over the town entrance; folks loaded portable toilets onto a flatbed. We’d just
missed a weekend celebration.
It looks beautiful and I love the idea of 'pudgy' churches.
ReplyDeleteYet another gorgeous stop on this amazing tour.
ReplyDelete