2013 Foliage Challenge - Photo #13

This maple tree is an early bird on the foliage spectrum, another indicator that Autumn color has begun. I dig the carpet of leaves, stippled upon green grass. Sadly, the property where this gem resides has been for sale for a couple years.

Join me in this Celebration of Fall. I'll post your foliage photo(s) in this series.

2013 Foliage Challenge - Photo #12

As I pedal underneath the broad canopy of this maple tree daily on my ride home, I realize how much I look forward to the tree's changing colors. And whether this tenacious tree will survive another year. But, like Vermont's barns that remaining standing, even under the harshest conditions, I marvel at the tenacity of singular trees, especially maple trees that thrive in open settings. With its main trunk top trimmed, the tree is obviously being looked after, so it will bring all who love it another year of wonder.

Join me in this Celebration of Fall. I'll post your foliage photo(s) in this series.

Coffeeneuring - Fifth Cup

Starbucks is located inside Barnes & Noble. It's beneath the green awning on the right. I'd forgotten
that the rubber spider was still affixed to my helmet, leftover from the Halloween Bike Ride.

Fifth Cup - Friday, November 1 - Starbucks at Barnes & Noble
I wasn't feeling particularly energetic so I did inside stuff then by late morning loaded a few things in my basket and went for a short ride. I also wanted to pick up a few groceries while I was out, opting to do that after coffeeneuring. No sense lugging heavy things around with me inside a coffee shop.

It's been a while since I've been to Barnes & Noble.I flipped through and fondled many appointment calendars—it's that time of year when I start looking for a new one—but nothing felt right. Too many spiral bound books or 18-month variety, or too large, too small.

Done with roaming the aisles, I tried a Chocolate Tazo Chai Tea Latte. Funny how the names of these fancy, schmancy drinks keep getting longer as more flavors are combined. I'm sure these unique drinks are probably made for people like me who are often bored with plain old coffee. It keeps us coming back for more. It tasted pretty good too; the chocolate portion complimented the chai. I also got my chocolate fix for the day.

I settled in for a while, reading a Janet Evanovich trilogy. I'm sucked into the bounty hunter character, wild Stephanie Plum, and her junk food, car wrecking antics. She also talks to her hamster. My sister-in-law has read this author and once said it's not great literature. That kept me away for sometime until a movie was made of the first book. I fell in love with the main character. She's also amusing, getting herself into some hilariously tight spots. I found the trilogy for a dollar at a book sale. The rest is history.

Total mileage: 5 miles.

First Cup, Second Cup, Third Cup, Fourth Cup, Sixth Cup, Seventh Cup

For rules, visit Third Annual Chasing Mailboxes Coffeeneuring Challenge.

GAPCO - Ohiopyle to Rockwood & Fallingwater Detour

36 miles

Tired of my annoying front fender, especially after the previous days fiasco, Andy removes 1.5" of forward curve with wire cutters so it clears the tire. Gosh, wish I'd done that myself many months ago. It doesn't look pretty, but it's hidden beneath the rack. I can trim it later at home.

After a leisurely breakfast, we slowly pack a few items for the detour to Fallingwater.

I'm not in shape for climbing hills. Photo credit: Patty

Leaving the rail trail behind, we climb for two miles through fog. I struggle in my lowest gear for most of what I think is the first of many hills before dismounting and walking the last 50 yards. It turns out to be the only ascent—at least in one direction—and we coast for the next 1.5 miles to Fallingwater's entrance. Pennsylvania's reputation, at least for cycle tourers, is that it's landscape is a series of endless hills—and big ones at that—traversed from east to west and vice versa. Thank goodness the detour was much shorter than predicted, and we'd soon return to gentle grades.

Visiting Fallingwater has been on my mental list, ever since enjoying Taliesin in Arizona 20+ years ago. I've always loved the prairie style and Craftsman houses. Frank Lloyd Wright's simple functionality of design, especially after the gaudy Victorian era, was attractive to me, and continues to be to this day.

Main entrance, hidden on purpose as if entering a cave.

What is surprising is how Mr. Wright designed Fallingwater as a retreat for the Kaufmanns, incorporating the woods and creek into almost every room; it became one of Wright's crowning achievements. Of special note: indoor pictures are not allowed and visitors are asked to refrain from touching anything, but are encouraged to walk around as though a guest in the Kaufmann's home—thus the informal tours. The Kaufmann's son, an architect himself and heir to Fallingwater and it's 5,000 acres, left the building and grounds to a conservancy, stipulating it's use for public enjoyment. The Kaufmann's art collection is amazing. There are a few Picasso's behind glass, but everyone can inspect each piece in detail.

A horizontal sliding glass door reveals stairway to stream, which doubles as air conditioner, letting cool breezes inside the house.

We follow a path to capture our own famous view of the building.

Collecting the rest of our baggage at the cabin, we set off once again. The trail continues climbing. It's late September. It's cool. The trees are changing. The sun filters through hazy sky.

We are lucky. With one day of rain behind us, there is no sign of any more precipitation for several days.

In Confluence we stock up on groceries. I watch our bikes while Andy and Patty try to buy wine at a Bed & Breakfast.

It occurs to me, with Pennsylvania liquor laws preventing us from purchasing a bottle with our groceries, that this must be what the Prohibition was like. If you wanted alcoholic beverages you would discreetly knock on someone's back door. Andy and Patty come back empty handed though. It's too early for the B&B to open.

Approaching the Pinkerton Tunnels. Trail takes a sharp right before unused tunnel
at end of bridge.  Photo credit: Patty

At the Pinkerton Tunnels, a train travels by, the sound echoing loudly through a 19th century tunnel, now daylighted because of collapsed ceiling. Cyclists, however, travel a roller coaster trail 1.5 miles around the horseshoe-shaped bend in the river, called the "horn".

Bike shop in Rockwood. Photo credit: Patty

In Rockwood, the late afternoon chill promises another cold evening. We planned to stay at a private campground, wanting a hot shower, but the place had bad vibes. The sites were completely covered with huge trees, dirt ground, plus the showers and water were located on the other side of the river. With the help of a friendly lady in an information booth—trailside no less—we locate a hostel in town. 

Hostel on Main, in Rockwood. Photo credit: Patty

The place was perfect.

The hostel was a former store. Green painted wooden floors, tin ceilings. Storage rooms
 were once refrigerated coolers

We got to stay indoors, had our pick of 34 beds because we were the only guests that night. We joked that we each had our own bathroom, which we actually did, preferring to use "our own" for the remainder of our stay.

And, we bought wine next door, from the Rockwood Mill Shops—a warren of rooms, selling everything from pastries to pizza to t-shirts, dolls, and even towels from Provence.

Greece - The Peloponnese Interior

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Ancient Corinth. Photo credit: Wikipedia

40 miles - Sunday, October 30

Cloudy skies. Met a couple teachers from Holland who helped us with camping information and interesting places to see in northern Greece and western Turkey. The traveler's grapevine is always worthwhile, a source of continual contemplation as we ride 4 kilometers uphill to Ancient Corinth.

We lock bikes at the site's entrance, and discover Sundays are free admission – a nice treat – and something to keep in mind as we venture further in Greece. Andy and I walk carefully over the old stones – to twist an ankle requiring complications we didn't want to think about – exploring an ancient marketplace, restored by archeologists. We tag along on an English speaking tour. The road underfoot once extended a few kilometers to the sea; it was a commercial hub in classical times; population 400-500,000; underground river providing necessary water which also flushed out communal latrines; Romans trashed the place during occupation. With the hilltop ruins spread before us, dry, scrubby trees, and acres of toppled stones, I could easily imagine a once bustling city with expansive views of crowded harbor, and barefoot slaves lugging supplies on rugged, stony roads.

Intricate, beautiful Dionysus (goddess of wine) mosaic in on-site museum.

We visit the indoor museum, admiring marble busts, pottery excavated from 600 B.C., and mosaics. I especially appreciate mosaics; it reminds me of quilting. I study one intricate, symmetrical design with Dionysus (goddess of wine) as its focal point.

Finished with Ancient Corinth, we straddle our bikes, still undecided where to go next. On the spot Andy and I decide to head south, swing through another region with ruins, and hopefully catch a ferry towards Athens.

Andy is amused by namesake tour bus -- a different mode of travel.

The next several kilometers are on a delightful country road to Argos. Exposed rock caps nearby hills. Valleys are irrigated for orange and lemon groves with olive trees taking up the remainder, edging roadsides. It's cozy and quiet. The overcast sky grows darker.

It starts sprinkling as we head toward hopeful camping in Nafplio. This city was the capital of Greece in early 1800s for a while after they gained independence. A large fortification overlooks buildings and harbor. Nearest “maybe” campground is 10-12 kilometers further, but by luck we stumble on a guy from Ottawa, Canada looking for a hostel. It sounded good to us and with more investigating discover the place is closed until spring. A woman from an economy hotel across the street approaches, offers 2,000 drachmas per person (9.00 USD) and we accept her accommodation – threatening skies and late arrival convinced us it's our manger for the evening.

We stay inside, eat cereal for dinner (tomorrows breakfast, stores are closed). Earlier, Andy had talked with an adjoining proprietor, who shared space on hotel's first floor and also started the hostel 26 years ago. He thought we'd want to know about a person firing several rounds into the White House, but was later caught. It's funny how news of home trickles down to us. Even with occasionally reading the Herald Tribune, after months on the road I feel far removed from current events.

We swap stories with the Canadian, John, on archeological sites to visit with all of us yawning and eventually calling it a night at 10 p.m.