A Slideshow Presentation

Cycling the Great Allegheny Passage and C&O Canal

When: March 12, 7:00 pm

Where: ArtsRiot, 400 Pine St. Burlington

    From Pittsburgh to Washington, D.C. is an incredible 335 miles of rail trail and canal towpath. Ideal for cycling, it's an opportunity for a versatile adventure – one can ride the trail in segments or traverse its entire length in one experience. Join an organized group, stay in B&Bs, hotels, or hostels, or do-it-yourself like Annie,Andy, and Patty did in September 2013, combining camping and indoor accommodation.

    Join Annie and Andy as they recount their eight day journey on the longest traffic-free cycling route in the U.S. Find out what makes The Great Allegheny Passage and C&O Canal unique adventures, from their distinctive trail surfaces, tunnels, viaducts, and bridges, to incredible history, free campgrounds, trail towns with amenities, and wildlife. Learn why both routes are attracting a growing number of travelers.

GAPCO - Post Tour Thoughts and Equipment Review

Somewhere on the C&O Canal. Photo credit: Patty

"People don't take trips, trips take people."
--John Steinbeck

Five months later our 335 mile GAPCO adventure resonates like no other time on two wheels. Perhaps it's the proximity to large and small cities, yet feels like a country ramble through the woods. Perhaps it's a myriad of welcoming small towns, providing all manner of accommodations. Perhaps it's the touring cyclists' camaraderie. Or that the Great Allegheny Passage trail seamlessly blends into the C&O Canal towpath, yet both trails are distinctive and can be an enjoyable journey on their own.

It's heartwarming to experience firsthand how small communities embrace bicycle tourism. In turn, cyclists learn a region's history. Other long distance rail trails should emulate this symbiotic nature. This rare blend of spectacular trail network was a long time coming in the U.S.—a movement that's sure to grow as more trails are developed and linked.

C& O Canal, approaching Big Slackwater. Photo credit: Patty

A big surprise: both trails are 90% tree covered. Leave the sunscreen behind. However, come prepared for colder than predicted temperatures in September and October. Because of shaded trail, chilly mornings will not warm until 10 or 11 a.m. Trade-off: mosquitoes are gone; we had our pick of campsites, and could fall back on indoor accommodation during inclement weather. Next time, I'd add chemical warmers for back up warmth; they're small enough to pack without adding a bulky second pair of shoes.

Incidentals and Equipment Review

I'm a veteran bike tourist, but with the advent of lightweight gear, new fabrics, and different tour companions lending a fresh perspective, I continually learn new ways of doing things. It becomes an on-road class in bike touring with every adventure.

I giggled when my girlfriend bought Jiffy Pop to have as a snack—not too mention that it's impossible to pack inside panniers. However, if kept flat on rear rack Jiffy Pop stays intact. It also cooks pretty fast on a simple camp stove. And did you know that wine and popcorn go well together? I'm sold on this combination for any upcoming bike tour!

Photo credit: Patty

A digital camera doubles as documentation device. Snap a photo of wildlife for later identification—even if it's a big mother snake viewed from a safe distance.

My husband used an inexpensive plastic poncho as bike tarp, plus as additional coverage over an inadequate rain jacket. I presume it could also replace rain gear on an overnight adventure, saving space, and/or utilized as tent ground sheet. Get one at your local dollar store.

I would have preferred riding my mountain bike (I lent it to my girlfriend), but found my touring bike was very comfortable and certainly adequate for the entire journey.

An unexpected side effect: our bike tires constantly flung sticks and twigs. This happened even on GAP's fine, stone dust surface. We worried the twigs would lodge in our wheels and break spokes.

My bike had two fender problems.

The only mechanical mishap, fortunately, was a broken rear fender. A stick probably got caught, snapped the fender, buckling the plastic up against the frame.

My Avenir Excursion small panniers held up well. One side housed ground pad, sleeping bag, and rain wear, while the opposite compartment held clothing and toiletries. If you're a minimalist, the price is right for a decent amount of capacity.

The only downside is, at some point, I'll need to replace the u-shaped hooks that attach to rack. They are cheaply made and one hook was slightly bent before I started the ride. However, the center clamp is a nice touch, insuring hooks stay in place.

Eight days of bike touring on GAPCO's amazing network was certainly a highlight of 2013. I couldn't have traveled with better companions than my husband and dear friend, Patty. I hope we share many more two-wheeled adventures.

For a collection of day by day blog posts, see GAPCO Trail 2013.

GAPCO - Turtle Run to Washington, D.C.

The landscape opens a bit as we near Washington, D.C.

Friday, September 27, 40 miles.

We savored the last miles of our trip. It was a self-imposed slowness that was unspoken; neither of us had agreed to slacken the pace. I felt bittersweet; it was an incredible journey that was coming to a close, yet I hungered for more riding. The forecast promised an incredible stretch of fine weather, and though I'm not one to revisit an adventure—too many places to see, so little time—I finally understood why people have ridden this trail numerous times: we missed Antietam Battlefield and other sights. All things aside, I could've turned around and ridden back to Pittsburgh.

Broad Run Trunk Aqueduct kept in working order. Photo credit: Patty

It was easy to stall the inevitable entry into a big city. Again, we flushed a barred owl from the trail; we stopped to gawk at egrets or listen to Canadian geese emit an eerie sky-filled shrill that almost made me cover my head, and since we couldn't spy the flock through dense canopy, I wondered at their numbers flying overhead or perhaps congregating a stone's throw away along the Potomac. And, like many days herons and turtles were constant companions, ornamenting a disused canal.

But when we arrived at Great Falls Tavern a working canal boat, led by mules, displayed the former C&O work life like nothing else could. 

We got to see the speed at which the mules walked, how important a taught towline was to overall tracking and navigation, and surprisingly—at least to me—that two people, and not one, directed the mules.

Photo credit: Patty

Nearby, we took turns investigating a long elevated walkway for precious views of Great Falls. It's a magical place, if not wholly natural because of an upriver dam. Near golden trees and debris deposited at high water line illustrates a tumultuous environment. The falls are in constant flux, influenced by season and rainfall, and I imagine, a wonder that draws people back, again and again.

Photo credit: Patty

Annie crossing towpath at Widewater. Photo credit: Patty

Downriver, hiking trails veered off into the woods, eventually looping back. There were walkers, something we didn't see a lot of in earlier days.

Photo credit: Patty

Lo and behold a snake eases onto the path. And not just any snake, but a 5-foot all black thing with white-checked belly.

Photo credit: Patty

We keep our distance and watch it meander away, disappearing into grass beside the canal. I later learned that sometimes snakes coil themselves around a tree trunk. Not for the first time I was thankful we cycled in Autumn, when creatures, great and small, are often languid or non-existent, especially snakes and mosquitoes.

We take lots of pictures, having to leapfrog a runner a few times.

With three miles to the finish line, a paved trail appeared. It would be easier to cycle on asphalt, but we didn't come all the way from Pittsburgh, riding every trail mile to bypass a bit of discomfort at the end. Instead, we stuck to the plan, even though the dirt trail had become much rougher since leaving Great Falls.

Mile marker 1. Photo credit: Patty

With one mile to go, Georgetown's brick buildings considerably narrow the C&O Canal National Park. On paper, and in reality, it felt like entering D.C. through the back door.

Following the canal to it's source, becomes an interesting game in navigating city infrastructure. Bridges and roadways now block what was once a continuous towpath. It's unclear where to go; not even the guide book is a help. However, strangers point us in the right direction.

There's nothing quite like hefting touring loads up and down stairs. I'm glad we only had to do it once.

Narrow section in Georgetown.

A short jaunt brings us to a busy street, one blocked by barricades and numerous policemen. Fortunately, they let us through.

Historical park sign. Photo credit: Patty

The C&O Canal pathway is brick-lined between one city block. A former tourist canal boat is left to rot in the water, sadly full of peeling paint and dirt.

The canal's humble beginning.

Directions are sketchy at the end and we nearly get separated. But Patty finds the way, past a marina. I never would have guessed we'd need to duck between long skulls on shore and a boat house. But there, on the other side is the canal and it's intersection with the Potomac.

Cement post marks canal entrance.

335 miles later we are at mile marker 0.

Photo credit: Patty

World War II Memorial.

It's such a nice day and only two o'clock. It seems a shame to retreat to a hotel on the far side of the river when D.C.'s monuments are so close. We join the throngs around the Lincoln, WWII, and Korean memorials, pushing bikes when appropriate.

Reflecting pool and scaffold-wrapped Washington Monument in background. Photo credit: Patty

I could've ridden the entire Mount Vernon Trail. It's great being in touring shape again. Photo credit: Patty

The it's off to Reagan National Airport to retrieve our car, via the Mount Vernon Trail.

At the end of the runway, Andy must watch a plane zoom overhead

Taking care of bikes, hotel, and much needed showers, we relax and reminisce over margaritas and Mexican food. What a great adventure!

GAPCO - Antietam Creek to Turtle Run

Early risers often capture the best photos. Photo credit: Patty

Thursday, September 26, 36 miles.

It's day seven on the road. I woke to heavy fog, condensing into droplets on the tent. For a moment I thought it was raining, but I began to understand that our proximity to the Potomac meant moisture every morning—it was only a matter of how much.

The photo also shows the tunnel effect: corridors of old trees line the trail.

It's a pleasantly warm morning and gloves are removed soon after we set out. I pick up a gnarly-looking fruit, curious about it's bumpy texture. The flora and fauna are often unfamiliar to New Englanders—one attraction of the C&O Canal—so I stash the "fruit" on my front rack, determined to ask a local its identity.

Andy spied this old building with two stone ovens, off trail through the trees. We presumed it was for ash, coke, or some such industry that took advantage of canal transport.

At Harpers Ferry there isn't easy access across the river to town. We aren't comfortable leaving our bikes locked at the racks out of sight. Instead we lug heavy bikes up several stairs and walk the bridge. Andy does double duty, returning to help Patty with her load.

A lovely sycamore tree.

Harper's Ferry is Civil War central—at least it felt like it to us. You could easily spend an entire day, attending walking tours, reading historical signs, peek inside rebuilt shops, peruse museums. For us it was a chance to relax in sunshine, go on a restaurant foodie fest, and enjoy river views. I gobble a much anticipated hamburger while the vegetarians slurp milkshakes.

A museum attendant identifies the green fruit as an Osage orange. I'd heard of the name and because it's inedible though not poisonous, I cut into it out of curiosity. It's pungent with a hint of orange scent, and leaves a weird sticky residue on my Swiss Army knife, which oddly remains until returning home where I can properly clean the knife with detergent and scrubbing pad.

Fall colors are just beginning near Harpers Ferry. Photo credit: Patty

It's tough to leave the sun and picturesque confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers, but onward we go, retracing the bridge-walk past tourists, hefting the bikes again to river level.

Monocacy Aqueduct. Photo credit: Patty

It's a leisurely pace. Gone is the impetus to travel 50+ miles—we only have 60 total to complete over the next 2 days, ending in Washington, D.C. The only stressful part comes in Brunswick. Being the largest town before camping we search for a food store with directions "left to route such and such, turn right, not far". However, the ride is a mile of continuous uphill on a busy road which seems to be endless, though luckily there is an 8-foot wide lane reserved for cyclists. The perception of the C&O Canal is that it's flat—and it is for those staying in hotels, eating restaurant food, one can stay close to trail for those amenities—but for campers, it can be a hilly detour to locate a grocery store.

Monocacy Aqueduct's seven arches. Photo credit: Patty

We stop to admire Monocacy Aqueduct's seven arches. It's the longest aqueduct en route at over 500 feet. It's also our first encounter with C&O Canal's Bike Patrol. There are many volunteers who ride sections—this guy's intention is to go further from D.C. where there is less likely to be patrols.

Andy admires a humongous tree.

An example of trail near turtle heaven (boggy canal on left). Photo credit: Patty

A artsy painted bike in bike-friendly downtown Brunswick.

Photo credit: Patty

Patty and I pedal a brief few yards off trail at White's Ferry to watch the only remaining active ferry crossing on the Potomac. Interestingly, it's a cable ferry. The cable winds onboard as it comes toward us.

A mile later we camp at Turtle Run. By now Patty and Andy join me for water bottle bathing. A hair wash is on order too. And just in time for company. A lady cyclist pulls in. The woman is a D.C. tour guide who is out for a long weekend; it's her one overnight before rendezvous at a church retreat the following day.

Only picnic table with such message. Giggling, we presume it's not intended for us!

A bottle of wine, nice company, and two rousing games of Yahtzee is a fitting camping finale.

GAPCO - Hancock to Antietam Creek

Wednesday, September 25, 55 miles.

Day six started cool, once again, and I struggled to rise from a cozy warm sleeping bag. This time, however, I had the impetus to dry out a wet rain fly. Moisture adds weight and since I schlepped the tent, might as well buck up to the elements. Again I was the last one up, though this time I ate breakfast with the crew.

Patty (in yellow jacket) takes advantage of extra picnic table to organize gear.
In the foreground, a clothing bag, toiletries, and shoes are lined up, ready
 to take with me into wash house before stowing items into panniers. 

We were the only campers at Hancock's Municipal Park. Before we roll onto adjacent C&O Trail, I wheel my bicycle to the wash house. Despite primitive camping, bathrooms are spacious and include hot water—a small luxury I take advantage of before setting off.

Aiming for another 50+ mile day we head out early, enjoying sun-kissed views of the Potomac River.

Park employees driving a large tractor-size mower and pickup truck (behind)
 pull over to let us pass. Photo credit: Patty

Again we are dressed for warmth. By now we expect heavily wooded trail; rays of sunshine are minimal, yet we accept the park for what it is: a historical reminder of what once was an amazing engineering feat, preserved for all to enjoy by foot or on two wheels.

It's a well-maintained path, cleared of major debris. We wave to park employees. One drives a monster lawnmower to cut grass. That's a 180 mile lawn mowing job!

Photo credit: Patty

In Williamsport there is a grassy bank in full sun. It just so happens it's also lunchtime. We strip to t-shirts and shorts, grab food bags, and relax near Conococheague Creek Aqueduct. Nothing like eating lunch, letting bare feet breathe.

It's a good vantage to inspect the collapsed wall. A canal boat accidentally hit the wall, sending the barge into the river below. The captain's quick-thinking son released the towline and saved the mules while the captain jumped to an intact abutment wall. A wooden replacement barrier was erected and used until the canal closed in 1924.

Andy fixing his lunch.

I thought our bikes and baggage resembled a Himalayan mule train.

After lunch we replenish our food supply at the local Dollar General. It lacks fresh produce, yet we often can't be picky. One of us usually remains behind to watch the bikes while the others shop. Since I'm the only meat eater I'd rather they choose what fulfills their diet. After one smelly tuna fish can that they both complained about  (we had to pack out all trash from campsites) I was happy to eat boiled eggs for the remainder of our trip.

Overlook at Lock 81 & 82.

Andy and Patty cross knife-edge.

Beginning of Big Slackwater pathway.

Dam #4 pooled the Potomac which allowed the canal builders to use the river channel instead of constructing a canal. Without a towpath, cyclists detoured this slackwater section until 2012 when a raised concrete 2.7 mile pathway was built, drilled into bedrock, integral to completing 180 continuous trail miles.

Photo credit: Patty

It's nearly 20 minutes of unfiltered sun—something we were truly grateful for in late September.

Photo credit: Patty

In Shepherdstown we leave the canal path, cross the river on a segregated access ramp, safely apart from automobile traffic, then pick a route through university campus. We search for a private campground, as the symbol on our map suggests, but do not locate any signs. We pull into a fire station and inquire. The fireman assure us there is no campground though they offer a patch of grass behind the building. We thank them and inspect the spot. It would be okay as last resort. I rather liked the idea of attending bingo in the fire station, offered that evening, yet a picnic table, outhouse, privacy, and readily available water awaits only 3 miles further once we backtrack to the towpath.

While in Shepherdstown Patty and Andy shop for dinner and breakfast. Patty returns, all giddy and excited; wine is sold in the grocery store, a first on our adventure. It's providence. Only half hour later, at Antietam Creek Campsite, at 6 p.m. we are still in shorts. After dinner, in the dark we stroll along the path, using flashlight to avoid any dips that might've collected water from a few days before. Crickets chirp, bird calls, frogs cheep—at least we think they are frogs. What's totally absent are trains—first time on GAPCO. It's such a pleasant evening that Andy, Patty, and I play Yahtzee on the picnic table. Another first.