Wednesday, July 6
Andy and I climbed Ben Nevis today. While we ascended the
stone path with 200 others, we heard that Mel Gibson was in the Nevis Valley
filming another movie. (Back in the U.S. a year later we saw Braveheart and recognized the Scottish
scenery.)
Summit of Ben Nevis, highest mountain in the U.K. Photo credit: barbon |
Ascending the stairs on Ben Nevis. Photo credit: resqellie.blogspot.com |
Adding a summit patch to my backpack. |
50 miles, Thursday, July 7
By now I understand how the currency works. One pound is
approximately $1.61 U.S. There are 100 pence to a pound. One pound notes are
the same value as one pound coins. Only Scotland honors the notes as they’ve
been issued by Scottish banks. We’ve been advised to swap to coins when leaving
the country. The fifty pence coins are huge, the pound smaller, and the 2, 10,
and 20 pence quite tiny. We fumble with the coinage, inspecting each for the
denomination because the sizes are so confusing.
As the autos rattle past, we comment on how many of them use
diesel – at least half. R.V.s or “caravans” as the Scots and English call them
are everywhere, but half the size of the monstrous U.S. variety.
Scottish Castles - I had film for this one! |
Braking on a hill, we spied a castle perched on a tiny
island at the mouth of a bay. It was idyllic, quintessential Scotland. With a
sigh, I sadly realized our camera was out of film.
Germans on holiday invade this
country. They’ve been on Ben Nevis, in each campsite, and on bicycles. Because
of their affluence and proximity they often visit the United Kingdom. Ferries connect
the British Isles to all points on the European mainland.
As Andy and I pumped up a short
steep hill my granny gears rattled. This was a niggling problem which I
presumed could be cured when I switched the thumb shifter from index to
friction mode. No luck. If anything, the grinding noise worsened. I bailed out
in a muddy pull-off. We worked on the derailleur for a few minutes with a
screwdriver adjusting the screws, but it wasn’t addressing the problem. Just
then a blond-haired German hopped off his heavily loaded bike. With his few
English words and hand signals it was obvious that he knew what to do. Andy
handed him the tools. Within moments he‘d fixed the problem: one screw needed
tightening. Then, like the anxious Scotland traffic, he hopped on his bike and
continued up the hill, gone before we had much of an opportunity to say
“thanks”. My German angel!
What I love about bicycle travel
are the unexpected pleasures. The least likely thing happens when you take a
wrong turn or decide to stop and smell a flower. All morning we’d been
urinating – every hour it seemed. Early afternoon we halted again, this time at
an abandoned quarry. Andy went behind a bush for a bit and then yelled to me. I
didn’t understand what he said. He returned and pointed at the cliffs where an
owl glided from the trees. White with a dusting of tan on its wings it
disappeared in a moment, like a feather of hope, sailing into a hole in the
mine’s wall.
The amount of bed & breakfast
places is astounding. In every town, no matter how small, there are at least
two. In Fort William every other house was a B&B. I bet you could fill a
phone book with all the ones in Scotland.
As our appetites increase food
becomes paramount and variety is critical. Today we tried medium white cheddar cheese
- creamy and tasty - very similar to Vermont’s Cabot. Yesterday’s selection
included an onion and parsley Edam wedge. Yum.
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