Click here for the Introduction.
Wednesday, September 7
The campground is a 30 second walk to the Donau River. Last
night we strolled on the path beneath the stars. We reflected on our accomplishment
and trials, pedaling from bicycle/English friendly Netherlands across clean and
ordered Germany, navigating the roughened former East Germany, surviving poor
Czech villages set amidst the most breathtaking scenery and now back to a
cleaner, bike path friendly environment. I welcomed the change.
Today, we’d decided to stay an extra night. We needed a
break from the seat after a week’s toil, plus I left my crippled bike in the
care of an English speaking bike shop mechanic. I left directions to rebuild
the wheel after they suggested it was the only way to insure its stability. The
Trek will also get an updated bottom bracket, the cartridge type. I was confident
and relieved - finally the bike would function properly for the next leg to
Budapest.
Then we went to Vienna. The train was easy to navigate then Andy
and I switched to the metro for a straightforward ride into city center. We
surfaced, blinking into sunshine on a busy street, like a chipmunk peeping
above ground.
I neglected to label this one. Any ideas? |
For the first time in a metropolis, we walked without a
specific goal. Baroque-styled buildings mingled with offices, coffee shops, banks;
bustling office workers and tourists filling the streets. Like any urban
environment there was a lot of asphalt, concrete and stone. Vienna felt a bit
claustrophobic, but that’s likely due to city-overload on our part after
visiting Paris, Amsterdam, and Prague, all within a month. We only spent a
couple hours on foot before retreating to Tulln.
Burgtheater (National Theater) |
But our rambling coincided with an opportune moment. As we
rounded a corner we stopped. Leather suited policemen on motorcycles puttered
in and surrounded a building. Chauffeurs stood next to Mercedes, obviously
waiting for someone. Then army personnel stood at attention, their green
helmets and holstered guns prominently displayed, guarding the same structure.
We lingered on the sidewalk. A reporter carrying a TV camera on his shoulder
trotted closer to the massive structure (later identified as the Hofburg Palace),
shouldering a TV camera.
A few minutes passed. Salutes erupted from under the carport.
Soldiers stood erect, walking police shuffled about, talking into radios, while
a small crowd of suited men briskly traveled the sidewalk near us, their entourage
of guards and bodyguards scanning the gathering crowd.
And then they were gone.
Andy and I swapped bewildered looks. Obviously, an important
person or persons went by. Andy asked a lingering reporter. It was the Austrian
president and Hungary’s prime minister. As the reporter put it, “Austria and
Hungary have been aligned for years. Since the passing of communism from
Hungary, its prime minister has been after the president for money. Austria is
a well off country.”
Exterior of Saint Peter's Church, tightly packed within Vienna's towering buildings. Photo credit: Wikipedia |
We also went inside tiny Saint Peter’s Church. The
building’s 1700’s Baroque stone exterior was capped with a green dome, and
squeezed between taller structures. It was the classic case of ancient building
surrounded my newer construction. There is something about churches that I find
inviting: admittance is free, often filled with surprises, and the quiet space
relaxing amidst chaotic city life. Inside, the compact space was filled with a mass
of golden statues. It was a feast for the eyes. Arched ceilings adorned with
paintings, dazzling every space overhead. The pews were solid benches flanked
with elaborate carvings of clustered heads, animals, and saints.
Interior of Saint Peter's Church. Photo credit: Wikipedia |
Common with other Catholic churches, there are special side
chapels behind the main altar. We explored further, surprised by glass caskets
with skeletons perched inside. But these weren’t just any skeletons. It was a
shrine to martyrs or parish priests from what we could discern from the
pictures and German inscriptions. The head was covered in elaborate costume;
ribs wrapped in ornate jewels; feet clad in velvet boots. The entire skeleton
was beautifully encased, the whole effect rather gaudy, yet mysteriously
enchanting.
Vienna is so beautiful, seeing it by bike would be so romantic. I like your new colourful header too Annie.
ReplyDeleteThat ceiling is amazing. I still don't get to know if the dreaded spoke problem is laid to rest! I do hope so. If your bike isn't running smoothly it's always at the back of your mind isn't it? Stopping you from being completely relaxed and care free.
ReplyDeleteIt turns out fine, Blithe. All the problems get fixed at this bike shop. Sorry to string you along.
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