Click here for the Introduction.
37 miles - Saturday, September 17
Time to buckle down on expenses. And though we can’t cut
food from already voracious appetites, we can forego pastry shops and bottles
of wine. We buy yogurt for protein. Bananas and bread are ample calories for
breakfast and snacks. We savor one expensive jar of instant coffee; the plan is
to stretch it for as long as possible.
Accommodation is another story. Camping is undoubtedly the
cheapest way to go; no shaving there. One USD buys .8 Francs. Showers cost for
each of us, and had it not been for a two day hiatus, we’d have likely passed
on that regimen. If the first campground is indicative, we’ll be near and
probably a bit over our 30.00 per day budget.
Oh, but what a compromise for bike lanes, clean roads,
public toilets (hallelujah!) and the most breathtaking mountain scenery! The light
rain eases as we approach Luzerne. Snow-capped rocky summits suddenly become visible
between a church and a shuttered building as we cruise along its narrow main street. I am beside myself with joy.
.
We push onward and stop early, taking advantage of a
comfortable looking 4-Star campground. Andy and I are initially afraid it will
be pricey, but the off-season 15.00 SWF expense is reasonable, which includes
showers. We brightened, for the 50sF temperatures hadn’t risen all day. We
prize the daylight and walk along the edge of a beautiful lake and into a
neighboring village. On the return trip the view clears even more.
There is a chill in the air. It’s the middle of September in
Switzerland. Snow shadows our thoughts. We wonder if we’ll be able to hike or
even cross Saint Bernard Pass, a dream of mine. And that’s still days away.
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