France - Along the Seine River

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Photo credit: Port of Le Havre

15 miles, Saturday, July 30

The English Channel crossing took six hours. Oddly enough, the fee of 70 pounds for the two of us on a round-trip ticket was cheaper than two one-way fares.

We docked in La Havre, France under hazy, sweltering heat. I wiped my brow several times as we cued up on the hot tarmac, waiting to show our passports to the authorities. And then we were on our way.

With a large scale map of Normandy we headed around the busy mouth of the Seine River. The map was rife with a road network much like the United Kingdom.The immediate goal was to get to Paris by broadly following the Seine’s path; the lure of that city’s museums beckon us onward.

Along the way the purchase of dinner and breakfast was an uncomfortable introduction to French shopping. Dealing with the language added a new twist, calculating the exchange rate of 5.4 Francs to the U.S. dollar, pricing in kilograms, and trying to keep near our 30.00 per day budget was a cranky ordeal for two hungry cyclists. We put food back on the shelf only to return and place it back in our basket. By day’s end 66 Francs bought 3 meals—not bad in reality.

50 miles, Sunday, July 31

Oh the lovely delightful roads of France! Pedaling from Brionne toward Le Neubourg and Louviers a plethora of cyclists cruised by, their greetings equally divided between “Bonjour” and “Hi”. French cyclists do not wear helmets; our headwear and baggage immediately identify us as foreigners. The drivers in their compact Peugeots and Renaults waited patiently at blind curves, allowing ample room when they pass. It was obvious that cyclists are respected. Bike lanes and marked routes helped us navigate from village to village. Despite our inability to speak the language, it was a welcome introduction to France.

Normandy cattle.  Photo Credit: Kimball Stock

An unusual spotted cow grazes the fields. With many brown and black splotches, individual patterns resemble a Dalmatian; a herd in the distance is like a toss of white dice. Andy thought they’re a cross between a Holstein and Jersey. I yell “moo!” and smile.

At Les Andelys we crossed the Seine River again, this time on a narrow suspension bridge. A picturesque castle stares down on us and we take a break to admire the view. Later we got sidetracked cruising through farmland, thick with wheat. The crops were doubly fragrant after the passing rain shower. But then we discovered the single tracked road and corrected ourselves for the ride up and over the green basin.

Les Andelys suspension bridge. For more info. click here.

By day’s end we pull into Bouafles at a campground and negotiate the accommodation with simple words and hand signals. We were exhausted after a full day’s miles in a new land. In the tent Andy and I go over the French dictionary. While I don’t expect to speak fluently, we must learn enough to get by and understand simple directions. Practice will fill the long hours on the road.

51 Degrees on February 6

Along the lake shore a raft of ice undulates, ready to break apart. 

A lenticular cloud hovers over the North Beach bathhouse...

...creating a grin as wide as the blue sky.

Happiness is a bike ride on a spectacular winter's day.

A short break to marvel at the temperature.

Destroying Demons on the Diagonal Review

The author, Jeff Sambur, stayed with us twice through a Warm Showers connection, so as an acquaintance I feel compelled to give an unbiased review. It's also important to note that I too have written a book about a cross country journey (not published), so I appreciate the work involved in editing and organizing journals into readable text. To write, self-publish, advertise, and make money in an overcrowded market is an ambitious proposition. The best thing about digital publishing: the author can make revisions. It's important to note I read the first edition, so I do not know what changes were done in subsequent copies. My husband and I both read the book. We concur on the following review.

If one can get beyond the title and graphics, the subtitle "A Firefighter's San Diego to Maine Bicycle Ride into Retirement" gives a better clue to what's in the book.

Flipping through the novel, initially, the inclusion of maps, especially state by state is unique and well-done. It gives a sense of place that would've otherwise been lost. It lacks photos, however, of small town America that the author writes about in depth.

There is much to love in this book. The author is always on the move and even admits "a tinge of envy for those fortunate souls who can attain happiness and contentment without the need for motion. It was a foreign concept to me." He enjoys history, stopping to read plaques or quick to visit local museums. He journeys along Route 66, a particular fondness, or going out of his way to visit friends or take in minor league baseball games. The fact that Jeff rode over 6000 miles to cross the country shows his journey is not to take the shortest route and be done with it, but to truly enjoy the areas he travels through. Jeff is also gracious, bringing a gift to each host. I admire his knack for engaging strangers and is comfortable doing so—more than I would be.

As a firefighter Jeff's seen many horrific events; he starts each chapter with these narratives. However, his narratives while traveling by bike are full of sarcasm—and the fact that he meets people in bars over beers—I find uncomfortable. My takeaway from this book is the author is lonely, fighting demons that he discovers are not to be wiped out by movement—no matter how many miles under his wheels.

I would've liked more background in the initial chapter about his character: why he rides, relationships, friendships, and family. Bicycle touring is an important part of Jeff's life. The reader deserves to know this upfront.

Towards the end there are poignant events that are satisfying: visits with family and an unforeseen scare that offers Jeff a second chance. It is only then that I catch glimpses of his true character.

What's on Your Bucket List?

We all have dreams and for some of us that includes the proverbial "bucket list". For me it's a collection of things to do before I'm old and frail and can barely life a leg over a three wheeler. My list has fluctuated over the years and, of course, it's not all about the bike.

Photo credit: Time-Travel Britian

1. Hike Hadrian's Wall. Once a hiker, always a hiker. For years I was fascinated with Macchu Picchu. I read every article I could, inspected every photo of the place. But then the crowds took over and I gradually lost interest. Now I want to walk along Hadrian's Wall. I am fascinated with Roman history and have read William Dietrich's book of the same title. After spending time in England I think this would be a fun area to walk, eat in pubs, even if it means hiking under a poncho for much of the 10 days it takes to go from sea to sea.

Photo credit:  Bike and the Like

2. Ride GAPCO. This is a 300+ mile ride connecting two rail trails: The Great Allegheny Passage and C&O Canal. Starting near Pittsburgh and ending in Washington, D.C. the pathway is mostly smooth gravel and has camping along the entire route. I envision this as a family adventure, but if it doesn't work out I would go with a partner or possibly alone.

Photo credit: PEDAL Across the Americas

3. Pedal Across the Country Again. Yes, I didn't get enough the first time around. Now that it's been over 25 years since that adventure, I'd like to pedal the northern states with excursions into Canada. There is so much more to see...

What's on your list?

1923 Cycle-Skating

This sport is like the mountain bike of inline skating. What a hoot!